
Signature ingredients
Peptide serum OEM/ODM manufacturing
Peptide Serum · OEM/ODM
Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is a synthetic peptide of six amino acids, designed after the N-terminal end of the SNAP-25 protein and often marketed as “topical botulinum toxin” — a metaphor that cannot be used on a label. In laboratory models the peptide interferes with the SNARE complex needed to release neurotransmitters; applied to skin, however, it penetrates very poorly: on human skin in vitro after 24 hours, about 0.22% of the dose stayed in the stratum corneum, about 0.01% reached the epidermis and none was detected in the dermis. Human trials are small, short and inconsistent — a placebo-controlled trial in 60 people was positive, while an independent split-face trial in 19 people found no difference — so the evidence is limited. A peptide serum developed by Butter-C therefore keeps the peptide within the level the CIR Expert Panel concluded is safe (up to 0.005%, counted as actual peptide, not as raw material solution) and makes claims about how wrinkles look only after testing the finished product. Copper PCA — the copper salt of PCA, with humectant and skin-conditioning functions — is an optional second active for a pale-blue tint; it is neither a peptide nor a copper peptide. Butter-C offers full-service OEM/ODM manufacturing, from raw material selection and formula development to a labeled finished product with its cosmetic product notification.
Formula base
Dose the peptide as actual peptide, not as solution
Peptides are sold as dilute solutions, so “percent peptide” in marketing materials is easily misread. This calculation is settled before any other formula choice.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 — supplied as a solution
Synthetic peptide Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-NH2 (synonym: acetyl hexapeptide-3; CIR uses Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Amide), highly water-loving (XLogP −5.2), a molecule of nearly 900 daltons. The raw material Butter-C stocks is a solution in butylene glycol and water: the label lists the full INCI Butylene Glycol, Water, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8.
Percent solution is not percent peptide
The CIR Expert Panel (2025) concluded that Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Amide is safe up to 0.005% in current practices of use, with insufficient data for higher levels — counted as actual peptide on the COA. Worked example: if the COA states the solution contains 0.05% peptide, 10% solution in the formula equals 0.005% peptide. The “10% hexapeptide” figure in some studies does not say whether it means peptide or solution.
Copper PCA — optional second active
The copper(II) salt of PCA: two PCA groups bound to one copper ion, with copper making up about 19.9% of the anhydrous mass; CosIng lists humectant and skin-conditioning functions. Not a peptide, and not copper peptide (GHK-Cu). No use level is published in verified sources — follow the supplier's TDS.
A water-rich base
Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate and Panthenol for hydration; Hydroxyethylcellulose for an electrolyte-tolerant gel. In an in vitro comparison on pig ear skin, water-rich vehicles delivered more peptide into the skin than oil-rich ones.
Key technical points
Four things specific to a serum named after a peptide
Peptides are sensitive to how they are combined, and the copper ion in Copper PCA affects almost every ingredient around it. The four items below are settled before the texture is chosen.
Add the peptide to the cool water phase
The peptide belongs in the water phase, added at the cool-down stage per the TDS, avoiding prolonged heating. Verified sources give no pKa, stable pH range or heat and light sensitivity for the peptide: the pH range follows the TDS, and stability is confirmed by assaying the peptide (HPLC or LC-MS) across stability time points.
Copper ions and companion ingredients
In aqueous solution, Cu(II) catalyzes the oxidation of ascorbic acid and generates hydrogen peroxide — so Copper PCA is not combined with vitamin C, reducing agents or antioxidants that metals readily catalyze. Chelating agents such as EDTA may bind copper ions: whether to use them depends on the formula goal and stability testing. There are no verified data on the peptide and Copper PCA in the same bottle.
Blue tint and viscosity
Versions with Copper PCA usually have a pale-blue tint; color is compared with a reference standard at each time point. Electrolytes thin carbomer gels, so electrolyte-tolerant polymers such as Hydroxyethylcellulose and Xanthan Gum are chosen.
Safety reasoned in-house
Copper PCA has no dedicated CIR or SCCS assessment; the 2019 CIR report on PCA and its salts does not cover the copper salt. The PIF builds its case on use level and copper exposure: on human skin in vitro, copper from a copper PCA formulation passed through the full skin thickness only minimally (about 5 ng/cm²/hour), although copper levels in the skin rose. Following the CIR recommendation for the PCA group, the formula avoids ingredients that can form N-nitroso compounds. Raw Copper PCA carries a GHS classification for serious eye damage — safety glasses and gloves when weighing.
Three formulation directions
Three ways to tell the peptide story
Clear peptide serum
Acetyl hexapeptide-8 with Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin and Panthenol; a colorless light gel for morning and evening use. A minimalist direction with a short, easy-to-explain ingredient list.
Peptide – copper PCA serum
Copper PCA added for a pale-blue tint and humectant function; no vitamin C, electrolyte-tolerant polymer. A clear two-active story, in exchange for more thorough stability testing of color and viscosity.
Milky peptide serum
A thin oil-in-water emulsion with Squalane: the peptide sits in the continuous water phase. In an in vitro comparison, oil-in-water emulsions delivered more peptide into the skin than water-in-oil emulsions; for dry skin that wants extra softness.
Packaging is designed together with the formula
Airless pump or dropper bottles; bottles, gaskets and droppers are soak-tested with the sample. A blue-tinted version shows its color well in clear glass but must pass light-exposure testing.
Parameters we monitor
What our R&D lab measures on every sample
Below are the parameters Butter-C monitors during formula development and scale-up to production. Specific limits are agreed with you on the approved sample and then written into the product's in-house specification.
- Sensory profile & color
- Color, odor, clarity; versions with Copper PCA are compared for blue tint against a reference standard kept in the R&D lab.
- pH
- Measured directly at 25°C; pH drift tracked across stability time points, target range per the peptide's TDS.
- Viscosity
- Measured with a rotational viscometer, recording spindle and speed; viscosity loss caused by electrolytes is tracked.
- Peptide content
- Assayed by HPLC or LC-MS when the label names the peptide; checked against the peptide content on the raw material solution's COA.
- Copper content
- Copper and heavy metals on the raw material COA; copper assayed in the finished product when its content is claimed.
- Stability
- Accelerated aging at 40°C, freeze–thaw cycling and light exposure; we track color change, haze, precipitation and remaining peptide content.
- Packaging compatibility
- Soak-tested with the bottle, gasket, dropper or pump to be used; airtightness and light transmission checked.
- Microbiology & preservative challenge
- Tested at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory; preservative efficacy (challenge) test to ISO 11930 — a high-water base.
- Irritation & sensitization
- Tested on volunteers before the formula is locked. Copper allergy is uncommon but is associated with nickel allergy.
Claims
Writing claims within the cosmetic scope
Peptides are easily marketed in the language of injections and of anti-aging — neither can be used for a cosmetic. Annex 03-MP of Circular 06/2011/TT-BYT does not accept claims to prevent, reduce or reverse age-related changes; statements about how wrinkles look are made only after testing the finished product. Butter-C reviews the wording on labels and marketing materials as soon as the notification dossier is prepared.
Helps expression lines look less visible, skin look smoother
Only with testing on the finished product, describing the design (number of people, duration, whether there was a control group). Instead of: anti-aging, wrinkle eraser, face lifting.
Contains the synthetic peptide acetyl hexapeptide-8
A percentage is stated only when it is assayed actual peptide. Instead of: “10% peptide” when it is really 10% raw material solution.
Copper PCA helps hold moisture and condition skin
Follows the declared function; no clinical trial exists for this ingredient alone. Instead of: boosts collagen like copper peptide, controls oil like zinc PCA, replenishes the skin's NMF.
Describing the peptide's origin
“A peptide designed from laboratory research on the SNARE complex.” Instead of: topical botulinum toxin, needle-free, muscle relaxing, injection alternative, as effective as injections.
Directions and label cautions
Use sunscreen during the day; people allergic to nickel or metals should test on a small area first; pregnant or breastfeeding women and people receiving botulinum toxin injections should consult a doctor. Instead of: pregnancy-safe, non-irritating.
Study figures
The first study was carried out by the molecule's own design team; another clinical study was run by a company research center on a multi-active formula; an independent study in 19 people found no difference. Instead of: “reduces wrinkle depth by 30%” borrowed from a study.
Manufacturing specifications
Current capabilities
- Texture
- Water serum, light gel or thin milky serum; colorless or with the pale-blue tint of Copper PCA.
- Format
- Airless pump bottles, dropper bottles. Volume agreed when packaging is selected.
- Minimum order quantity
- Agreed per order — depends on the formula direction and the chosen format.
- Testing
- Tested at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory, with a peptide assay when the label names it; a certificate of analysis accompanies every lot.
- Documentation
- Product Information File (PIF) and cosmetic product notification dossier prepared by Butter-C, including the actual-peptide calculation and the copper exposure assessment.
- Packaging
- Label design, printing and packing run in parallel with formula development.
Suggested product concept
Fragrance-free, pale-blue peptide – copper PCA serum
A product direction to help you picture the idea — not a ready-made product for sale. The actual formula is developed around your brand's positioning and price range.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (solution)
The hero of the product; the solution level is back-calculated from the COA so actual peptide does not exceed 0.005%.
Copper PCA
Pale-blue tint and humectant function; level per the TDS, with no vitamin C in the formula.
Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol
The hydrating group; Hydroxyethylcellulose for an electrolyte-tolerant light gel; no fragrance, no colorants.
30 ml airless pump bottle
Limits air and finger contact with the product; the label advises daytime sunscreen and a patch test on a small area.
Customization options
What you can specify
The same product type can serve very different customers depending on the brand. Tell us your requirements in the areas below, and our team of pharmacists will develop a matching formula.
Active set
Peptide only, or peptide with Copper PCA; with Copper PCA, vitamin C is not combined in the same product.
Peptide level
Within the level the CIR concluded is safe (up to 0.005% actual peptide); going higher requires additional safety data in the PIF.
Texture
Water serum, light gel or thin milky serum.
Other peptides
Each peptide has its own data, use level and way of calculation — Butter-C checks each one before combining and does not add up their benefits.
Fragrance and color
We recommend fragrance-free; color is the natural tint of Copper PCA or colorless, with no added colorants.
Ingredient preferences
Fragrance-free, alcohol-free, vegan — please tell us at the start so suitable raw materials can be selected.
Further reading
Related topics
Acetyl hexapeptide-8 in cosmetics
Proposed mechanism, skin penetration data, human trials and the CIR 0.005% level (in Vietnamese).
Copper PCA in cosmetics
What is and is not known about copper PCA, its incompatibility with vitamin C, ASEAN rules (in Vietnamese).
Copper peptide (GHK-Cu) in cosmetics
A copper–tripeptide complex: why its data do not apply to copper PCA (in Vietnamese).
Anti-aging serum OEM/ODM manufacturing
A different direction: a serum combining several active groups (peptides, retinoids, vitamin C).
Soothing repair essence OEM/ODM manufacturing
Copper PCA in a supporting role, alongside centella and ceramides, in an essence for sensitive skin.
How we work
From idea to finished batch
Eight steps and three milestones signed off by both sides: approved sample, notification number, finished batch. Step-by-step details (in Vietnamese) →
Get started
Tell us about the product you plan to launch
Send us your product direction and expected volume. Our team will get back to you during business hours (Vietnam time, GMT+7).
Head office: Huu Le village, Dai Thanh commune, Hanoi · Factory: Thanh Oai Industrial Cluster, Binh Minh commune, Hanoi, Vietnam
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