BUTTER-C
Signature ingredients
Mulberry leaf essence OEM/ODM manufacturing
Mulberry Leaf Essence · OEM/ODM
Mulberry is tied to sericulture: mulberry leaves have been the main food of silkworms for centuries, and in many Vietnamese villages mulberry fields go hand in hand with silk reeling and weaving. That is a cultural story. The evidence for mulberry leaf extract (Morus Alba Leaf Extract) on skin, meanwhile, is still at laboratory level: certain phenolic compounds from the leaf inhibit tyrosinase and reduce melanin formation in cultured cells. A mulberry leaf essence developed by Butter-C therefore lets the leaf carry the name and the story, while the claim “helps skin look brighter and more even” rests on actives with human data such as niacinamide, optionally with tranexamic acid (within the ASEAN Annex III limit) or alpha-arbutin (at the SCCS safe level). The point that must be exact is the plant part: leaf, root, root bark and fruit are different raw materials, and their data are not interchangeable. Butter-C offers full-service OEM/ODM manufacturing, from raw material selection and formula development to a labeled finished product with its cosmetic product notification.
Formula base
The leaf tells the story; the actives carry the claim
A mulberry leaf essence has three layers: the named raw material, a group of actives with human data for an even-looking complexion, and a light hydrating base. No study has tested the leaf combined with the actives below — the complete formula needs stability and tolerance testing.
Mulberry leaf extract
INCI Morus Alba Leaf Extract — CosIng describes it as an extract of the dried leaves of white mulberry, function skin conditioning. No usage concentration has been established and no dedicated CIR or SCCS assessment has been found: the level follows the supplier's TDS and is confirmed by stability and tolerance testing. With a liquid extract in a water–glycol base, the percentage is that of the raw material solution and the label lists the solvents.
Niacinamide
2–5%, the range tested in humans: a 2% cream (with sunscreen) and a 5% cream reduced hyperpigmented areas and increased skin lightness after 4 weeks versus the vehicle. Niacinamide does not inhibit tyrosinase; it reduces pigment transfer to keratinocytes.
Tranexamic Acid or Alpha-Arbutin
Tranexamic acid at a maximum of 3.0% in skin products, not in products intended to contact mucous membranes (ASEAN Annex III, Ref A10); a cream with 2% niacinamide and 2% tranexamic acid has been tested for 8 weeks against its vehicle. Alpha-arbutin: the SCCS considers it safe up to 2% in face creams — the ASEAN Annexes have no entry for it, so this is a scientific reference level, not a legal limit; as a glycoside of hydroquinone, free hydroquinone must be tested.
Light hydrating base
Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol; light polymers such as Xanthan Gum or Hydroxyethylcellulose give a slightly thickened, fast-absorbing essence that leaves no sticky film.
Key technical points
The right plant part, the right substances, a stable color
The four items below decide whether a mulberry leaf essence has a sound file, and they are settled before the texture is chosen.
The right plant part
CosIng lists leaf, root, root bark, bark and fruit as separate INCI names; CAS 94167-05-2 is shared by several parts and cannot tell them apart. The animal-skin data on mulberroside A and oxyresveratrol, often cited in marketing, concern pure compounds isolated from the root or derived from a root compound — not attributable to leaf extract. The COA must state the species Morus alba and the leaf as the plant part.
No banned substances
Hydroquinone is banned in cosmetics (ASEAN Annex II, Ref 1339). The extract supplier commits to no adulteration; if the formula contains alpha-arbutin, free hydroquinone is assayed by HPLC in the raw material and across stability time points — UV-VIS spectrophotometry can give false results in the presence of arbutin.
A shared pH environment
Niacinamide should be kept away from strong acids and alkalis; arbutin can break down to hydroquinone under heat, UV or acidic conditions. Exfoliating acids are not put in the same bottle as arbutin; the pH range is settled by stability testing with active assays.
Color and light
Leaf extract darkens over time and is sensitive to heat and light; metal ions shift its color. The extract goes in at the cool-down phase, the formula includes a chelator, the packaging blocks light, and a color index is measured periodically.
Three formulation directions
One named ingredient, three levels of actives
Mulberry leaf – niacinamide essence
Fluid to slightly thickened, used morning and evening after toner. A gentle, cost-effective direction that suits the opening product of a brand's brightening line.
Mulberry leaf – niacinamide – tranexamic acid essence
Follows the 2% + 2% combination with human data; tranexamic acid within the 3.0% limit. Directions advise against applying to the lips and areas close to mucous membranes.
Mulberry leaf – alpha-arbutin essence
Alpha-arbutin at no more than 2% (the SCCS safe level for face creams), with tight control of process temperature and pH and hydroquinone testing per lot. For brands that want an added tyrosinase inhibitor with data in human cells and skin models.
Packaging designed alongside the formula
Amber glass or opaque light-blocking bottles with an orifice reducer or dropper for small doses; gasket and stopper materials are soak-tested with the samples.
Parameters we monitor
What our R&D lab measures on every sample
Below are the parameters Butter-C monitors during formula development and scale-up to production. Specific limits are agreed with you on the approved sample and then written into the product's in-house specification.
- Raw material identity
- COA for each extract lot: species, leaf as plant part, solvent, marker (total phenolics or flavonoids), microbiology, heavy metals.
- Sensory profile & color index
- Color, odor, clarity; color index measured periodically to catch darkening early.
- pH
- Measured directly at 25°C; pH drift tracked across stability time points.
- Viscosity
- Measured with a rotational viscometer, recording spindle and speed; tied to the orifice reducer or dropper.
- Active content
- Niacinamide, tranexamic acid and alpha-arbutin assayed by HPLC at the start and after stability time points.
- Free hydroquinone
- Assayed by HPLC in the raw material and finished product when the formula contains alpha-arbutin.
- Stability
- Accelerated aging at 40°C, freeze–thaw cycling and light exposure; monitoring color change, precipitation and odor change.
- Microbiology & preservative challenge
- Tested at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory; preservative efficacy (challenge) test according to ISO 11930.
- Irritation & tolerance
- Tested on human volunteers before the formula is finalized, especially for multi-active versions.
Claims
Writing claims within the cosmetic scope
Brightening products face frequent post-market checks; with mulberry leaf there is the added risk of borrowing data from another plant part or from oral-use studies. Butter-C reviews the wording on labels and marketing materials while preparing the cosmetic product notification.
Helps skin look brighter and more even
Based on actives in the formula such as niacinamide; ideally tested on the finished product, with a sunscreen recommendation. Instead of: instant whitening, bleaching, several shades lighter.
Hydrates, helps skin feel soft and smooth
Instead of: regenerates skin, renews skin.
Contains mulberry leaf extract
An ingredient story; names of leaf compounds only when the COA quantifies them. Instead of: “inhibits tyrosinase by 74.8%”, “contains oxyresveratrol”, “replaces hydroquinone”.
Daily sunscreen recommendation
Included in the directions; persistent darkening of the skin should be seen by a dermatologist. Instead of: erases melasma, melasma-free, prevents melasma from returning.
Nothing about blood sugar
Data linking mulberry leaf to blood sugar come from drinking the leaf or taking leaf extract orally, not from a cosmetic use. Instead of: supports healthy blood sugar, detoxifies the body.
Allergy note
People with a known allergy to mulberry, or to birch, Parietaria or olive pollen (possible cross-reactions), should test on a small area first. Instead of: non-irritating, safe during pregnancy.
Manufacturing specifications
Current capabilities
- Texture
- Fluid or slightly thickened essence, clear or with the natural tint of the leaf extract.
- Packaging format
- Amber glass or opaque light-blocking bottles with an orifice reducer or dropper. Volume agreed when selecting packaging.
- Minimum order quantity
- Agreed per order — depending on the formula direction and the chosen packaging format.
- Testing
- Performed at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory, with active and hydroquinone assays where needed; a certificate of analysis delivered with each batch.
- Documentation
- Product Information File (PIF) and cosmetic product notification dossier prepared by Butter-C, including a raw material file that states the correct plant part.
- Packaging
- Label design, printing and packing run in parallel with formula development.
Suggested product concept
Mulberry leaf – niacinamide essence in a light-blocking bottle
A product direction to help you picture the idea — not a ready-made product for sale. The actual formula is developed around your brand's positioning and price range.
Mulberry leaf extract
The named ingredient; level per the supplier's TDS, with the COA clearly stating the leaf.
Niacinamide
The active behind “helps skin look more even”, at a level within the 2–5% range tested in humans.
Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol
A light, fragrance-free hydrating base.
50 ml amber glass bottle
Protects the extract from light; the label carries a daily sunscreen recommendation and directions to test on a small area first.
Customization options
What you can specify
The same product type can serve very different customers depending on the brand. Tell us your requirements in the areas below, and our team of pharmacists will develop a matching formula.
Actives alongside the leaf
Niacinamide alone, or with tranexamic acid or alpha-arbutin — determines pH, testing parameters and label notes.
Texture
Watery, slightly thickened or a thin milky essence.
Time of use
Morning and evening, or evening only; a daytime version gives a more prominent sunscreen reminder.
Companion products
Toner, moisturizer and sunscreen built on the same mulberry leaf story, to sell as a set.
Scent and color
Fragrance-free recommended; the natural color of the extract.
Ingredient direction
Vegan, alcohol-free, fragrance-free — please specify these from the start so suitable raw materials can be selected.
Further reading
Related topics
Mulberry leaf extract (Morus alba) in brightening cosmetics
Evidence by plant part, concentration, safety and regulation (in Vietnamese).
Niacinamide in cosmetics
The active behind the even-tone claim and the levels tested in humans (in Vietnamese).
Tranexamic acid in cosmetics
The 3.0% limit and what topical forms have been tested (in Vietnamese).
Alpha-arbutin in cosmetics
The SCCS safe level and hydroquinone control (in Vietnamese).
Managing skin pigmentation
How melanin forms and where cosmetics can act (in Vietnamese).
Brightening serum manufacturing
A different direction: a multi-active serum with vitamin C and its derivatives.
How we work
From idea to finished batch
Eight steps and three milestones signed off by both sides: approved sample, notification number, finished batch. Step-by-step details (in Vietnamese) →
Get started
Tell us about the product you plan to launch
Send us your product direction and expected volume. Our team will get back to you during business hours (Vietnam time, GMT+7).
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