BUTTER-C
Signature ingredients
Rosehip facial oil OEM/ODM manufacturing
Rosehip Facial Oil · Signature Ingredients · OEM/ODM
Rose hips are the fruit of the wild dog rose, Rosa canina; rosehip oil (INCI Rosa Canina Fruit Oil) is famous for claims about scars, stretch marks and “natural retinoids”. The evidence needs to be stated plainly: a 2024 review found only two human trials and concluded there is insufficient evidence to recommend it for wounds; a randomized trial of a rosehip seed oil extract alone found it safe but not effective; the stretch-mark result belongs to a multi-ingredient cream; and the wrinkle data come from rosehip powder taken by mouth. We have also not found a verified literature source confirming that this oil contains retinoic acid. What is clear is its composition: rosehip oil is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids (linoleic, α-linolenic) and contains tocopherols and carotenoids — a light-feeling emollient, but one that oxidizes easily. Butter-C's rosehip facial oil is therefore positioned at the level of softening the skin and leaving it smooth, and its quality depends first on the right species and plant part and on measures against rancidity. Butter-C offers full-service OEM/ODM manufacturing, from formula development and testing to labeled finished product with its notification dossier.
Formula base
Rosehip oil in a more stable anhydrous oil base
A rosehip facial oil is an anhydrous (water-free) blend, so it needs no emulsifier system; anhydrous formulas usually do not use preservatives (formulation practice), and a conclusion of low microbiological risk must be documented as an ISO 29621 assessment. Unlike the squalane facial oil page — where rosehip is mentioned only in a stability comparison — here rosehip oil is the signature ingredient, and the carrier oils are chosen to offset its weakness against oxidation.
Rosehip oil (Rosa Canina Fruit Oil)
The CIR (USA) Quick Reference Table lists Rosa Canina Fruit Oil as safe as used, with a reported use range of 0.001–19% (final report 03/2011) — survey data, not a regulatory limit. The level within this range is set by sensory and oxidative stability testing; going higher, including bottling it neat, requires a separate safety assessment in the Product Information File (PIF) plus tolerance testing. The 2022 CIR report on Rosa canina-derived ingredients assessed 12 other ingredients (fruit, seed, flower extracts…), not the fruit oil — that conclusion is not cited for this ingredient.
Stable carrier oils
Squalane (a saturated hydrocarbon that resists oxidation), jojoba oil (chemically a liquid wax ester), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (MCT oil) and Coco-Caprylate/Caprate for a quick dry-down. In accelerated Rancimat oxidation testing at 100 °C, jojoba had the longest induction period, followed by olive, sunflower and then rosehip oil, correlating with polyunsaturated fatty acid content (Fagoaga et al., 2026). A stable base lowers the share of polyunsaturated fatty acids in the whole formula; ratios are set by sensory testing (formulation experience).
Antioxidants
Tocopherol is added as soon as the oil phase is blended; an oil-soluble rosemary leaf extract can be added (CIR 2018: safe when formulated to be non-sensitizing; contact allergy cases exist). Levels follow the supplier's technical documents and stability testing, monitored by peroxide value across time points.
Points to weigh when choosing
Fragrance-free is the recommended choice for a leave-on facial oil. No added extracts or essential oils “acting like a retinoid”: if a brand wants a vitamin A active, that is a different product under different rules (see the retinol article). This page covers facial oil; a maternity belly oil has its own page.
Key technical points
The right raw material and no rancidity — four points that decide quality
The issues below come from rosehip oil itself: species and plant part, its high degree of unsaturation, and popular claims that need to be set aside.
Fruit oil or seed oil, and which species
The INCI name says “Fruit Oil”, but the two commercial Rosa canina oils analyzed by Grajzer et al. (2015) were both cold-pressed from the seeds, whereas the review by Belkhelladi and Bougrine (2024) describes the oil as pressed from the fruit. Many studies only say “rosehip seed oil” without naming the species, or use the trade name “Rosa mosqueta” — a name that does not identify the species by itself; oil from another rose species (for example R. rubiginosa) is a raw material from a different species. The COA must state species, plant part (fruit or seed), pressing method and INCI; CAS is taken from the COA (PubChem lists both 84603-93-0 and 84696-47-9).
Rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids — prone to rancidity
Rosa canina seed oil contains 35.9–54.8% linoleic, 16.6–26.5% α-linolenic and 14.7–22.1% oleic acid (Lin 2017, per the ingredient dossier); two commercial oils were classed as “high linolenic” oils, with tocopherols up to 1,124.7 mg/kg, carotenoids up to 107.7 mg/kg and phytosterols up to 6,485.4 mg/kg, and their acid, peroxide and p-anisidine values and iron and copper contents indicated good quality (Grajzer et al., 2015). Measures: antioxidants, limiting metal ions, no prolonged heating, light-protective bottles with little headspace; inert gas flushing at filling is possible (general practice for polyunsaturated oils).
“Natural retinoid” — not verified
Verified analyses report carotenoids, tocopherols, phytosterols and polyphenols; we have not found a verified literature source confirming that Rosa Canina Fruit Oil contains trans-retinoic acid. Tretinoin (retinoic acid and its salts) is listed in ASEAN Annex II Ref 375 — a substance cosmetics must not contain. Rosehip oil is therefore not promoted as “containing natural retinoids or tretinoin” or “like retinol”.
Not a sunscreen
Tested in vivo by the ISO method, neat rosehip seed oil (species not stated in the study) gave an SPF of only about 2.6 (Acsova et al., 2021) — negligible. Rosehip oil is not on the UV filter list (ASEAN Annex VII); the label reminds users to wear sunscreen during the day.
Three formulation directions
Three types of rosehip facial oil
Rosehip oil in a squalane base
Rosehip oil within the CIR survey range, squalane making up most of the rest, tocopherol; light, little base odor, color depending on the rosehip oil lot. The common format: a few drops in the evening after moisturizer, for normal to dry skin.
Rosehip – jojoba evening oil
Rosehip oil, jojoba, squalane, tocopherol and oil-soluble rosemary leaf extract; a richer feel for dry skin. Jojoba may cloud in the cold — clarity is monitored.
Dry-touch rosehip – ester oil
Rosehip oil with MCT oil and Coco-Caprylate/Caprate; absorbs quickly, low shine, suited to combination skin and hot, humid climates. “Non-comedogenic” is not claimed — the verified sources contain no comedogenicity study on rosehip oil; acne-prone skin should patch test first.
Packaging is part of the formula
Dark glass or light-protective bottles, dropper or metered pump, little headspace. Dropper bulbs and gaskets must be soak-tested with the oil. A small volume helps the product be used up before the oil turns rancid.
Parameters we monitor
What our R&D lab measures on every sample
Below is the set of parameters Butter-C monitors during formula development and scale-up to production. Specific limits are agreed with you on the approved sample, then written into the product's in-house specification.
- Raw material identity
- COA for each lot of rosehip oil: INCI, species, plant part (fruit or seed), pressing method, refined or not, added antioxidants; fatty acid profile for comparison (high linoleic and α-linolenic).
- Raw material oxidation values
- Acid value, peroxide value and p-anisidine value on receipt; lots outside the in-house specification are not used in production.
- Appearance
- Color, clarity and odor against the standard; a rancid odor or color change signals oxidation and triggers a recheck.
- Finished product peroxide value
- Measured at the start and across stability time points — the key parameter for setting shelf life and period after opening.
- Stability
- Accelerated aging at 40 °C, freeze–thaw cycling and light exposure in the actual packaging; watching color, odor, haze and separation.
- Packaging compatibility
- Soak tests with the actual bottle, dropper, bulb and gaskets; watching for swelling, leakage and odor change.
- Microbiology
- Tested at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory; written microbiological risk assessment for the anhydrous system per ISO 29621.
- Skin evaluation
- Spreadability, dry-down time and shine; irritation testing on volunteers before the formula is finalized. Any figures on softness, hydration or even tone must be measured on the finished product itself.
Claims
Claims at the level of softening the skin
Evidence for rosehip oil applied to the skin is limited. The review by Belkhelladi and Bougrine (2024) on post-surgical scars — a medical setting — found only two human trials and concluded the evidence was insufficient to recommend it. In a randomized, open-label, rater-blinded trial in 68 children with type 1 diabetes (136 hands, 12 days), a rosehip seed oil extract was safe but did not improve skin lesions caused by finger pricks (Aguirre-Romero et al., 2020). In a randomized, double-blind trial in pregnant women using a cream with rosehip oil plus hydroxyprolisilane C, Centella triterpenes and vitamin E, the overall stretch-mark rate did not differ from control (37.6% vs 33.3%); only among women without stretch marks at baseline was it 5.6% vs 35% — a result of the whole formula (Garcia Hernandez et al., 2013). The wrinkle study with rosehip powder was oral (Phetcharat et al., 2015). Annex 03-MP of Circular 06/2011/TT-BYT does not accept claims to remove scars or to prevent or reverse aging.
Softens the skin, leaves it smooth
A benefit of the emollient oil and of the whole formula. Instead of: fades scars, fades dark marks, regenerates skin, wound care.
Reduces the feeling of dry, rough skin
A sensory claim, used once tested on the finished product; hydration figures only when measured on the product itself. Instead of: prevents or fades stretch marks based on a multi-ingredient cream.
Contains rosehip oil (Rosa Canina Fruit Oil)
An ingredient and story claim; species and plant part as on the COA. Instead of: “natural retinoid”, “contains tretinoin/vitamin A acid”, “like retinol”; citing oral rosehip powder results for a topical oil.
Helps skin look more even-toned
Only with testing on the product itself. Instead of: drug-like claims about dark marks or scars; anti-aging, rejuvenation.
Label notes
“Patch test on a small area before use. Use sunscreen during the day. Keep tightly closed, away from light, in a cool place; stop use if the oil smells rancid or the skin becomes red or itchy.” The literature includes a case report of allergic contact dermatitis from “Rosa mosqueta” oil (Ochando-Ibernon et al., 2018) — a single case that gives no frequency, so the label never says “hypoallergenic”. Instead of: natural sunscreen, non-comedogenic, safe for every skin type.
Pregnancy, breastfeeding
There is not enough data specific to rosehip oil; the 2013 trial used a multi-ingredient cream and its abstract did not report safety results separately — advice is to ask a doctor. Instead of: safe for pregnancy.
Manufacturing specifications
Our capabilities
- Texture
- Clear liquid oil, pale yellow to yellow-orange depending on the oil lot and level; squalane, jojoba or ester base.
- Pack formats
- Light-protective glass bottle with dropper or metered pump. Volume agreed when choosing packaging.
- Minimum order quantity
- Agreed per order — depends on the formula direction and pack format chosen.
- Testing
- Performed at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory, with a certificate of analysis delivered with every batch.
- Documentation
- Product Information File (PIF) and cosmetic product notification dossier prepared by Butter-C, with the rosehip oil COA stating species, plant part, pressing method and oxidation values.
- Packaging
- Label design, printing and packing run in parallel with formula development; the store-away-from-light and daytime-sunscreen notes are laid out from the first label draft.
Suggested product concept
Fragrance-free rosehip facial oil in a squalane base for evening use
A product concept to help you picture the result, not a ready-made product for sale. The actual formula is developed around your brand's positioning and price range.
Rosehip oil with a complete COA
Level within the CIR survey range; COA states the species Rosa canina, plant part, pressing method, acid and peroxide values.
Squalane
A stable, light carrier that lowers the share of polyunsaturated fatty acids in the whole formula.
Tocopherol, fragrance-free
Antioxidant for the rosehip oil; no fragrance.
30 ml dark glass dropper bottle
Light-protective, little headspace; label directs a few drops in the evening, with patch-test and daytime-sunscreen notes.
Customization options
What you can specify
The same product type can serve very different customer groups. Tell us your requirements in the areas below and our pharmacists will develop the matching formula.
Rosehip oil level
Within the CIR survey range, or higher (including neat) with a separate safety assessment and more thorough oxidative stability testing.
Carrier oils
Squalane, jojoba, MCT oil or dry-touch esters — these decide skin feel and stability.
Raw material source
Species, plant part, cold-pressed or refined, organic certification — stated on the label only when the supplier has documents.
Scent
Fragrance-free (recommended) or a very light fragrance, with fragrance allergens declared under the rules of the target market.
Packaging
Dropper or pump, tinted glass or opaque light-protective bottle, small volume.
Ingredient positioning
Fragrance-free, silicone-free, vegan — please state these at the outset so the right raw materials can be chosen.
Further reading
Related knowledge
Rosehip oil in cosmetics
Fruit or seed oil, evidence on scars and stretch marks, the retinoid question, allergy and storage (in Vietnamese).
Squalane facial oil manufacturing
A facial oil named after squalane — a stable carrier often blended with rosehip oil.
Gac fruit facial oil manufacturing
Another anhydrous oil named after a plant oil: color control and carotenoid oxidation.
Belly oil manufacturing
Rosehip oil in a maternity belly oil — claims at the level of softening, not stretch-mark prevention.
Choosing oils in cosmetic formulation
Skin feel and oxidative stability of oil groups, and how to build a carrier blend (in Vietnamese).
Retinol in cosmetics
When a brand needs a genuine vitamin A active — different from rosehip oil (in Vietnamese).
How we work
From idea to finished batch
Eight steps and three milestones signed off by both sides: approved sample, notification number, finished batch. Step-by-step details (in Vietnamese) →
Get started
Tell us about the product you plan to launch
Send us your product direction and expected volume. Our team will get back to you during business hours (Vietnam time, GMT+7).
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