BUTTER-C
Signature ingredients
Calendula cream OEM/ODM manufacturing
Calendula Cream · Signature Ingredients · OEM/ODM
Calendula — also called pot marigold, botanical name Calendula officinalis, in the daisy family (Asteraceae) — is associated with gentle care for baby skin and sensitive skin, and has long featured in European herbal preparations. That is a cultural story, not yet evidence. Calendula is also not the African or French marigold (genus Tagetes), even though English calls both “marigold”. Scientifically, the evidence on human skin is limited: the one double-blind trial found in healthy people had only 20 participants, used a cream with 1% supercritical CO2 extract and recorded higher skin hydration than the base cream after the skin had been irritated (Crnčević et al., 2025); the rest consists of cell or animal experiments or trials of medicinal preparations. A calendula cream is therefore a gentle, fragrance-free moisturizing base with claims at the level of “moisturizes, soothes the feeling of tightness”, in which the flower extract is the signature ingredient — chosen for the right species and extraction solvent, and labeled with a note for people allergic to plants of the daisy family. Butter-C offers full-service OEM/ODM manufacturing, from formula development and testing to labeled finished product with its notification dossier.
Formula base
Calendula flower extract in a gentle moisturizing cream base
The extract is only a small part of the formula; moisturizing feel, softness and stability are decided by the emulsion base. The four groups below are the directions Butter-C works with.
Water–glycol calendula extract
The raw material on file at Butter-C is a blend declared as “Water, Butylene Glycol, Calendula Officinalis Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethyl Hexanediol”: the percentage in the formula is the percentage of the blend, not of dry extract, and the label must list all five INCI names. CIR (2001) describes Calendula Officinalis Extract as an extract of the flowers; the name on the label (Extract or Flower Extract) must match the certificate of analysis (COA). The raw material record also carries a Vietnamese name that does not appear in Butter-C's ingredient article, which uses calendula, pot marigold — the label uses the INCI name and the species name from the COA. No use concentration has been established in the sources read: it is used according to the supplier's technical data sheet (TDS).
Oil or CO2 extract (optional)
The double-blind trial in healthy people with a defined extract concentration (Crnčević et al., 2025; 20 participants) used 1% supercritical CO2 extract in a cream. Oil and CO2 extracts are rich in triterpenoid esters; water–glycol extracts contain mainly water-soluble compounds such as flavonoids — the two forms differ in composition. This form goes into the oil phase and is not in the current raw material list: source and COA are confirmed per order.
Humectants and emollients
Glycerin, Panthenol and Sodium Hyaluronate hold water in the stratum corneum; Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and shea butter soften; Ceramide NP for the dry-skin version. The ingredient article suggests pairing calendula with panthenol and glycerin in a gentle, fragrance-free base.
Emulsion base and preservation
Oil-in-water emulsion with Glyceryl Stearate – PEG-100 Stearate or an olive-derived emulsifier, Cetearyl Alcohol, Carbomer or Xanthan Gum; preservative system Phenoxyethanol – Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol for the oil phase. Avoid stacking several daisy-family plants (chamomile, arnica…) in one formula, so as not to add potential allergen sources.
Key technical points
Four points specific to putting calendula into a cream
This is where this page differs from the general moisturizing cream page: issues that come from the calendula raw material itself — species, extraction solvent, carried-in components and stability.
Right species: calendula is not Tagetes
ASEAN Annex III (version 2026-1) restricts flower extracts and oils of Tagetes minuta, Tagetes patula and Tagetes erecta (Ref 324, 325, 327): 0.01% in leave-on products, 0.1% in rinse-off products; alpha-terthienyl content in the extract ≤ 0.35%; leave-on products not to be used in sunscreen products or products marketed for UV exposure; combined use of the species may not exceed the limit in total. These limits do NOT apply to Calendula: “calendula”, “marigold” and “faradiol” do not appear in Annexes II, III, VI (version 2026-1) or VII (version 2025-2). The COA must therefore state the species Calendula officinalis and the flower as plant part.
The extraction solvent decides which data apply
Della Loggia et al. (1994) fractionated a CO2 extract of the flowers and found triterpenoids to be the main group behind its topical activity, with the faradiol monoester the most relevant because of its quantity — a preclinical experiment. Nicolaus et al. (2017) tested n-hexane, ethanol and water extracts on cultured skin cells and obtained different results depending on the solvent. CO2 extract data therefore do not automatically apply to a water–glycol extract; CIR (2010) also handles flower extract and seed oil as two different ingredients.
Components carried in by the blend
Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol and Ethyl Hexanediol from the blend are added to the formula's total glycols (they affect tackiness and skin feel). We searched Annexes II, III, VI (version 2026-1) and VII (version 2025-2): there is no entry for ethylhexanediol or hexanediol. These diols do not replace the finished product's preservative system — a water-rich cream still needs a preservative efficacy (challenge) test according to ISO 11930. The water-based blend is added in the cool-down phase and checked for microbes on receipt of each lot (practice).
Color, odor and stability
We found no published data on the pH stability, heat or light stability of cosmetic calendula raw materials; the raw material record recommends protection from light and no heating (supplier data, not independently verified). Butter-C runs stability testing with light exposure on the first sample, monitors the cream's color and odor, and chooses packaging that limits light exposure.
Three formulation directions
Three calendula creams for three customer groups
Calendula gel cream
High water, low oil, gelled with carbomer; water–glycol extract, glycerin, panthenol. Cool feel, fast absorption — for oily or combination skin that still feels tight, and hot, humid climates.
Calendula–ceramide moisturizing cream
Oil-in-water emulsion with shea butter, squalane and Ceramide NP; a richer texture with stronger occlusion. For dry skin and skin that feels tight in air-conditioned rooms.
Calendula cream with CO2 extract
The CO2 extract goes into the oil phase, following the design of the 1% cream trial; that study's results still do not become claims of a new product — measure on the finished product if you want to claim. You can ask the supplier for a faradiol monoester specification (proposed as a quality marker by Della Loggia, 1994). The oil phase may carry a yellow-orange color.
Packaging designed alongside the formula
Tubes or pump bottles limit contact with fingers, air and light; wide-mouth jars only for thick creams, with a spatula and inner lid. Choose packaging after the light-exposure results, not afterwards.
Parameters we monitor
What our R&D lab measures on every sample
Below are the parameters Butter-C monitors during formula development and scale-up to production. Specific limits are agreed with you on the approved sample and then written into the product's in-house specification.
- Sensory profile & color
- Color, odor and smoothness against a reference standard; monitoring darkening of the extract across stability time points, including light-exposed samples.
- pH
- Measured at 25 °C; monitoring pH drift over time.
- Viscosity
- Rotational viscometer, with spindle and speed recorded; tied to the tube, pump bottle or jar.
- Emulsion droplet size
- Checked under the microscope; small, uniform droplets indicate a stable emulsion.
- Stability
- Accelerated aging at 40 °C, freeze–thaw cycling, centrifugation and light exposure in the final packaging; monitoring separation, color, odor and pH.
- Microbiology & preservative challenge
- Incoming calendula blend checked for microbes; finished product tested at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory, preservative efficacy (challenge) test according to ISO 11930.
- Tolerance
- Patch testing and in-use testing on volunteers before the formula is finalized — required if the label states “suitable for sensitive skin”.
- Skin hydration
- Stratum corneum hydration and transepidermal water loss measured at a testing facility when you want a figure or a hydration duration on the label.
- Packaging compatibility
- Filled into the exact tube, bottle or jar to be used; monitoring discoloration at contact areas, weight loss and seal integrity.
Claims
Writing claims within the cosmetic scope
The European Medicines Agency (EMA, 2018) monograph on calendula flower is a herbal medicinal product monograph; trials on diaper rash, wounds and irradiated skin used medicinal preparations in a medical setting. Those uses do not carry over to cosmetics, and Appendix 03-MP of Circular 06/2011/TT-BYT does not accept drug-like claims. Below are the wordings Butter-C proposes.
Moisturizes, leaves skin soft
Instead of: drug-like claims about dry, cracked or flaking skin.
Soothes the feeling of tightness
Use once sensory testing on the finished product is available. Instead of: “restores damaged skin”, drug-like claims about redness, irritation or rash.
Contains calendula (Calendula officinalis) flower extract
An ingredient and story claim. Instead of: calling the ingredient “African marigold” or just “marigold”; citing the CO2 extract trial for a water–glycol blend.
Helps the skin retain moisture
State figures only when measured on the finished product. Instead of: “restores the skin barrier”, “regenerates skin”.
Label reminders
Do not use if allergic to plants of the daisy family; test on a small area of skin before use; avoid the eye area (CIR 2010: may be mildly irritating to the eyes). Among 443 patients patch tested, 9 (about 2%) reacted to calendula and only 4 of the 9 were positive to the Compositae mix (Reider et al., 2001) — so the label does not say “hypoallergenic” or “will not cause allergy”.
Pregnancy, young children
Data are insufficient for cosmetics applied during pregnancy — consultations advise asking a doctor. This page covers an adult facial cream; products for babies need their own formula safety assessment (see the baby moisturizer page).
Manufacturing specifications
Our capabilities
- Texture
- Gel cream, light cream or rich cream; milky white to the natural pale yellow of the extract.
- Format
- Tube, pump bottle or jar. Volume agreed when choosing packaging.
- Minimum order quantity
- Agreed per order — depends on the formula direction and the format chosen.
- Testing
- Performed at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory; certificate of analysis delivered with every batch.
- Documentation
- Product Information File (PIF) and notification dossier prepared by Butter-C, including the full INCI list of the calendula blend.
- Packaging
- Label design, printing and packing run in parallel with formula development.
Suggested product concept
Fragrance-free calendula–panthenol moisturizing cream for dry skin
A product concept to help you picture the result, not a ready-made product for sale. The actual formula is developed according to your brand's positioning and price range.
Calendula extract
Water–glycol blend at the TDS level; INCI matching the COA, species name Calendula officinalis on the label.
Glycerin, panthenol, Ceramide NP
Humectant and barrier-lipid group — the basis for the moisturizing claim.
Light, fragrance-free cream base
Oil-in-water emulsion, squalane, tocopherol; no other daisy-family plants added.
50 ml tube
Label with a reminder for people allergic to daisy-family plants and a small-area test.
Customization options
What you can specify
The same product type can serve very different customer groups. Tell us your requirements in the areas below, and our pharmacists will develop the formula accordingly.
Extract form
Water–glycol (in stock) or oil / CO2 (per order) — decides the phase it goes into, the color and the INCI on the label.
Calendula story on the label
Name, flower artwork, herbal tradition — stated as tradition; no Tagetes imagery or names.
Texture
Gel cream, light cream or rich cream; tube, pump bottle or jar.
Moisturizing group
Panthenol, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, shea butter — chosen for the target skin type.
Fragrance
Fragrance-free (recommended for a gentle line); if fragrance is needed, a fragrance-free version is made in parallel.
Ingredient preferences
Vegan, PEG-free, silicone-free — please state these at the outset so suitable raw materials can be selected; “organic” only with certification for the raw materials and the formula.
Further reading
Related knowledge
Calendula in cosmetics
How it differs from Tagetes, extraction solvents, limited evidence for soothing, daisy-family allergy and ASEAN rules (in Vietnamese).
Moisturizing cream OEM/ODM manufacturing
The three ingredient groups and three textures of moisturizing creams in general.
Soothing barrier repair essence OEM/ODM manufacturing
A companion product in sets for sensitive skin.
Contact reactions to cosmetics
Telling irritation from allergy, patch testing by a doctor (in Vietnamese).
Dry skin and dehydrated skin
Oil-poor and water-poor skin need two different kinds of cream (in Vietnamese).
How we work
From idea to finished batch
Eight steps and three milestones signed off by both sides: approved sample, notification number, finished batch. Step-by-step details (in Vietnamese) →
Get started
Tell us about the product you plan to launch
Send us your product direction and expected volume. Our team will get back to you during business hours (Vietnam time, GMT+7).
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