BUTTER-C
Signature ingredients
Glycerin moisturizing cream OEM/ODM manufacturing
Glycerin Moisturizing Cream · Signature Ingredients · OEM/ODM
Glycerin (glycerol) is a small polyol with three hydroxyl groups that attracts and holds water, and it is already present in the skin's stratum corneum — the aquaporin-3 transport channel and lipid metabolism in the pilosebaceous unit are considered pathways supplying endogenous glycerin (Fluhr et al., 2008). It is in almost every moisturizer, and it has randomized human trials: a 20% glycerin cream increased stratum corneum hydration versus a glycerin-free base in 24 people with atopic dermatitis (Breternitz et al., 2008); in 197 people with atopic dermatitis, a 20% glycerin cream had the same effect on skin dryness as a 4% urea + 4% sodium chloride cream but caused less smarting (Loden et al., 2002); in 51 healthy volunteers with dry skin, the glycerin component of a cream contributed to hydration while the petrolatum component contributed to lower water loss through the skin (Vaillant et al., 2020). The first two studies belong to a medical context — they are data about the ingredient, not claims for the product. Butter-C's glycerin cream makes glycerin the backbone of the formula, at a level chosen by tackiness on the face or the body, paired with emollients and occlusives, with the raw material checked for diethylene glycol on the COA; claims stay at “moisturizes, reduces the feeling of dryness and tightness” (to be tested on the finished product). Glycerin is already in the factory's raw material list. Butter-C offers full-service OEM/ODM, from formulation and testing to a labeled finished product and notification dossier.
Formula base
Glycerin as the backbone, with emollients and occlusives
Glycerin draws water into the stratum corneum; keeping that water there takes emollients and an occlusive layer. Unlike the general moisturizing cream page (the three ingredient groups in general) and the general body lotion page, this page is about using glycerin itself at a level high enough to carry the name while still feeling comfortable on the face and body.
Glycerin — a single substance, origin per supplier
INCI “Glycerin” (glycerol, propane-1,2,3-triol; C3H8O3, 92.09 g/mol, CAS 56-81-5 per PubChem) is miscible with water in all proportions and insoluble in oil — it always sits in the water phase. The factory keeps single-substance glycerin on file. PubChem lists both synthesis from propylene and sugar fermentation, so “plant glycerin” is only stated when the supplier provides an origin statement for the lot. Glyceryl stearate, diglycerin and polyglycerin are different substances with their own INCI names.
Emollients and occlusives
Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and shea butter soften; Petrolatum or Dimethicone limit evaporation. Why pair them: in the crossover trial by Vaillant et al. (2020), the cream's glycerin component contributed to corneometer hydration and its petrolatum component to lower transepidermal water loss (TEWL) — each ingredient doing one job.
Emulsion base and preservation
Oil-in-water emulsion with Glyceryl Stearate – PEG-100 Stearate or Cetearyl Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum or Carbomer; Phenoxyethanol (max 1.0% — Annex VI Ref 29) with Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol for the oil phase. A lot of glycerin does not replace the preservative system: ISO 11930 challenge testing remains mandatory.
Points to weigh when choosing
The glycerin level decides the feel: the higher, the stickier and shinier (ingredient article: high glycerin levels increase tackiness). Facial skin usually accepts a lower level than the body; rough dry areas such as shins and elbows tolerate more. Fragrance-free is the default for this line.
Key technical points
Four points specific to glycerin as the named ingredient
These issues come from glycerin itself: choosing a level when only two levels have been tested in humans, impurities in an ingredient used at high levels, temperature, and penetration enhancement.
Choosing the glycerin level from data and feel
Human trials exist at 5% (with 1,3-propanediol, 30 healthy women, applied to the forearm, measured up to 8 hours — Pinto et al., 2024) and 20% (creams — Breternitz 2008, Loden 2002). The abstract of the CIR Expert Panel report does not give a use-concentration range, so this page quotes no “typical” figure. The exact level between the two reference points is set by sensory testing (tackiness, shine, dry-down time) on samples — formulation experience.
Diethylene glycol impurity
ASEAN Annex II (06/2026 release), Ref A1140: “Diethylene glycol (except if it is present as unavoidable trace limit of 0.1% in finished product)”. Glycerin is used at high levels, so each lot's COA must show purity and glycol impurities; a change of supplier means re-checking. Glycerin itself is not named in Annexes II, III or VI of the 06/2026 release.
Temperature and cold raw material
According to PubChem, glycerin can crystallize in the cold and the crystals only melt again when warmed to 20 °C — warm and mix before weighing; glycerin decomposes on heating, releasing acrolein, so it is not held at high temperature beyond a normal emulsification process. The sources checked give no specific decomposition temperature.
Glycerin increases penetration
Bettinger et al. (1998): after mild stratum corneum damage by tape stripping or acetone, skin under occlusive glycerin for 5 hours both resisted irritants better and let more hexyl nicotinate through than skin under water. So when fragrance or potentially irritating actives go into a high-glycerin cream, tolerance is assessed on the complete formula.
Three formulation directions
Three glycerin creams for face and body
Light glycerin – propanediol gel cream for the face
High water, low oil; moderate glycerin paired with Propanediol — the humectant pair measured on forearm skin by Pinto et al. (2024) — plus Sodium Hyaluronate and Panthenol. Absorbs quickly with little shine; for normal and combination skin that feels tight, in hot humid climates.
Glycerin – petrolatum cream for dry skin on face and body
Oil-in-water emulsion: glycerin with refined Petrolatum, Squalane and Dimethicone — the humectant-plus-occlusive principle of the Vaillant et al. (2020) trial (one author from a dermocosmetic company; the abstract gives no concentrations). Petrolatum is only used with a full refining history (Annex II Ref 904 — see the petrolatum balm page). For dry skin, dry seasons, air-conditioned rooms.
High-glycerin body cream
Glycerin near the 20% level of the two randomized trials, with tackiness balanced by Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and a thickening polymer; for arms, legs and rough dry areas. The 20% level comes from trials in people with atopic dermatitis: it guides the ingredient level and is not a claim. This version needs careful testing for stickiness and shiny marks on clothing.
Packaging is part of the formula
Tubes or pump bottles for face creams and light body creams; jars for thick creams, with a spatula and inner lid. The body version covers large areas, so it comes in larger sizes than the face version. Glycerin is hygroscopic: raw material drums are closed right after dispensing (factory practice).
Parameters we monitor
What our R&D lab measures on every sample
Below are the parameters Butter-C monitors during formulation and scale-up. Specific limits are agreed with you on the approved sample and then written into the product's in-house specification.
- Glycerin COA
- Per lot: purity, water content, glycol impurities (diethylene glycol — Annex II Ref A1140), identity; origin statement when the label says “plant”.
- Appearance & skin feel
- Color, odor and smoothness versus the reference sample; tackiness, shine and dry-down time on an internal scale — the key parameters when glycerin is high.
- pH
- Measured at 25 °C; glycerin does not ionize in the cosmetic pH range (pKa 14.4 — PubChem), so pH is set by the other ingredients.
- Viscosity
- Rotational viscometer, spindle and speed recorded; matched to the tube, pump bottle or jar.
- Stability
- Accelerated aging at 40 °C, cold storage, freeze–thaw cycling and centrifugation in the final pack; watching for separation, oil bleeding, color or odor change.
- Microbiology & challenge test
- Finished product tested at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory; preservative efficacy (challenge) test per ISO 11930.
- Hydration measured on people
- Corneometer (and TEWL if a water-loss claim is wanted) on the finished product at a testing unit — required for any number on the label.
- Tolerance
- Patch testing and in-use testing on volunteers before the formula is finalized, especially for versions with fragrance or added actives.
- Packaging compatibility
- Filled into the actual tube, bottle or jar; monitoring weight loss, seal integrity and discoloration at contact points.
Claims
Writing claims within the cosmetic scope
Glycerin has randomized human trials, but most of the evidence comes from a medical context or short experiments. Breternitz et al. (2008): randomized, double-blind, with the cream base as placebo, 24 people with atopic dermatitis, 20% glycerin cream twice daily for 4 weeks, designed within the framework of a phase III drug study — stratum corneum hydration rose and barrier function recovered versus the base; erythema, SCORAD and local severity scores did not differ between groups. Loden et al. (2002): randomized, double-blind, 197 people with atopic dermatitis, three arms (20% glycerin cream, cream base, 4% urea + 4% sodium chloride cream), at least once daily for 30 days — equal effects on skin dryness as judged by patients and dermatologists; moderate-to-severe smarting in 10% with the glycerin cream versus 24% with the urea–saline cream; the first author was from a company. Vaillant et al. (2020): randomized, double-blind, four-arm crossover, 51 healthy volunteers with dry skin, measured for 12 hours after one application; the study states it was not designed to evaluate clinical benefit. Fluhr et al. (1999): two studies on experimentally damaged skin (tape stripping, repeated SLS washing), where glycerin-applied sites recovered TEWL faster; the abstract does not give the number of subjects. Appendix 03-MP of Circular 06/2011/TT-BYT does not accept drug-like claims. Below are the wordings Butter-C suggests.
Moisturizes, reduces the feeling of dryness and tightness
A cosmetic-level benefit of the whole formula, stated once sensory testing on the finished product is done. Instead of: drug-like claims about flaky dry skin, eczema or atopic dermatitis.
Increases skin hydration (only when measured on the finished product)
A percentage or a number of hours is only stated when measured by corneometer on the finished product itself. Instead of: quoting ingredient study data as product data, “72-hour hydration” without measurement.
Helps limit water loss through the skin (occlusive version, when TEWL is measured)
Only stated when TEWL is measured on the finished product; a benefit of the glycerin-plus-occlusive system. Instead of: restores the skin barrier, restores damaged skin, mends the skin.
Contains glycerin — a substance naturally present in the stratum corneum
An ingredient and story claim; “plant glycerin” only with the supplier's origin statement. Instead of: normalizes desquamation, stimulates skin renewal.
For dry skin, skin prone to tightness
A skin-type description; “for sensitive skin” only after tolerance testing on volunteers. Instead of: non-irritating, safe for all skin, for babies.
Label reminders
“Test on a small area of skin before use. Stop use if the skin turns red or stings. Do not apply to open wounds.” Pregnancy and breastfeeding: the sources checked give no specific recommendation for topical glycerin — consultations advise asking a doctor. This page is for adults; children's products need a separate formula safety assessment. Instead of: safe for pregnancy, safe on children's skin.
Manufacturing specifications
Available capabilities
- Texture
- Gel cream, light cream or rich cream; milky white.
- Packaging format
- Tube, pump bottle or jar; face and body versions. Size agreed when packaging is selected.
- Glycerin raw material
- Already in the factory's raw material list; COA supplied with every lot.
- Minimum order quantity
- Agreed per order — depends on the formula direction and packaging chosen.
- Testing
- Tested at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory; certificate of analysis delivered with every lot.
- Dossier
- Product Information File (PIF) and cosmetic product notification dossier prepared by Butter-C, including the glycerin COA with glycol impurities and the petrolatum refining history (if used).
- Packaging
- Label design, printing and packing run in parallel with formulation.
Suggested product concept
Fragrance-free glycerin – petrolatum cream for dry skin on face and body
A product concept to help you picture the idea — not a ready-made product for sale. The actual formula is built around your brand's positioning and price range.
Glycerin around 10%
Suggested level from formulation experience, between the two levels tested in humans (5% and 20%); finalized after sensory tests of tackiness on the face and forearm.
Petrolatum, Squalane, Dimethicone
Occlusion and softening; petrolatum with a refining history per Annex II Ref 904.
Panthenol, fragrance-free base
Short ingredient list, oil-in-water emulsion, Tocopherol for the oil phase.
100 ml tube
For face and body; the label carries reminders to patch test and not to apply to open wounds.
Customization options
What you can specify
Within the same product type, every brand targets a different customer. Tell us your requirements in the areas below and our pharmacists will build the matching formula.
Glycerin level
Moderate for the face or high for the body — decides the acceptable tackiness and how much emollient is needed to balance it.
Occlusive
Refined petrolatum, Dimethicone or shea butter; a mineral-oil-free version is possible if the positioning requires it.
Area of use
Face only, body only or both — decides texture, pack size and the level of tolerance testing.
Supporting ingredients
Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Ceramide NP — a few, not a long list; each addition is tolerance-tested in the glycerin formula.
Claims with measurements
Hydration (corneometer) or water loss (TEWL) measured on the finished product itself; volunteer testing is quoted separately.
Ingredient preferences
Fragrance-free, vegan, silicone-free — please state these up front; “vegan” or “plant origin” requires the glycerin supplier's statement.
Further reading
Related knowledge
Glycerin in cosmetics
Moisturizing mechanism, human evidence, tested concentrations and raw material quality notes (in Vietnamese).
Moisturizing cream manufacturing
General page: three ingredient groups and three textures of moisturizing cream.
Body lotion manufacturing
General body page: fast absorption without stickiness over large areas.
Petrolatum balm manufacturing
The occlusive that pairs with glycerin, and the Annex II refining-history condition.
Dry skin and dehydrated skin
Telling oil-poor from water-poor skin to choose the cream texture (in Vietnamese).
The skin barrier
Why humectants need occlusives alongside them (in Vietnamese).
How we work
From idea to finished batch
Eight steps and three milestones signed off by both sides: approved sample, notification number, finished batch. Step-by-step details (in Vietnamese) →
Get started
Tell us about the product you plan to launch
Send us your product direction and expected volume. Our team will get back to you during business hours (Vietnam time, GMT+7).
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