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Retinal (retinaldehyde) serum OEM/ODM manufacturing
Retinal (Retinaldehyde) Serum · OEM/ODM
Retinal (retinaldehyde) is the aldehyde form of vitamin A and sits between retinol and retinoic acid in the metabolic chain: retinol is oxidized to retinal, and retinal to retinoic acid. Being one step closer to retinoic acid than retinol makes retinal a name many brands are interested in — but retinal is not tretinoin, the prescription drug banned in ASEAN cosmetics. Human data with 0.05–0.1% retinal creams report smoother, better-hydrated skin and clearly better tolerance than retinoic acid; even so, the evidence is only moderate to limited, because just one trial had a parallel vehicle group and the others are small or only compare two concentrations. The hard part of a retinal serum is in the factory: retinal is highly oil-soluble, unstable in the presence of water and degraded by light, so quality depends on an oil base or low-water system, antioxidants, airtight light-proof packaging and real-time assays of retinal. The ASEAN annexes set no specific limit for retinal; Butter-C chooses a level within the range tested in humans and confirms it by testing the finished product. The material is not in Butter-C's current stock list, so it is sourced per order with a mandatory COA. Butter-C offers turnkey OEM/ODM manufacturing, from formula development and testing to a labeled finished product and notification dossier.
Formula base
Retinal, an oil base or low-water system, antioxidants
Retinal is highly oil-soluble and unstable with water and light — the four points below decide how much retinal is still in the serum on the last day of its shelf life.
Retinal — the aldehyde of vitamin A, not tretinoin
Per PubChem: retinal (INCI: Retinal; all-trans-retinal, also called retinaldehyde or vitamin A aldehyde), CAS 116-31-4, C20H28O, molecular weight 284.4; a solid melting at 63 °C, highly lipophilic (computed XLogP 6.2). Retinol is converted to retinal and then to retinoic acid by oxidation (Duell 1997). Retinoic acid (tretinoin) is a prescription drug banned under ASEAN Annex II, Ref 375 “Tretinoin (INN) (retinoic acid and its salts)” — the entry covers only retinoic acid and its salts; retinal is a precursor, neither retinoic acid nor a salt of it, so it does not fall under this ban.
Sourced per order, COA mandatory
Retinal is not in Butter-C's current stock list. The manufacturing route, purity and isomer ratio of commercial material must come from the supplier's documents; the COA should state retinal content, isomers (PubChem also lists 11-cis and 13-cis) and any carrier or stabilizer supplied with it — these go into the ingredient list. Butter-C asks the supplier to control free retinoic acid as an impurity, since retinoic acid is a banned substance.
Oil phase, minimal water
A formulation team at a dermocosmetics company reported that retinal's stability is insufficient, notably in the presence of water, and selected the oil-phase components according to retinal solubility when building an emulsion (Bordat 2005). A retinal serum therefore favors an anhydrous oil base (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane) or an emulsion whose oil phase can dissolve the retinal; retinal is added in the cool-down phase, handled under reduced light and with minimal air entrainment (common practice for retinoids).
Antioxidants and supporting humectants
There are no verified data on oxidation specific to retinal; the cautious practice is Tocopherol, BHT (Annex III Ref 342: up to 1% for “Other leave-on and rinse-off products”, counting any amount already in the raw material), Disodium EDTA in water-containing versions and minimal headspace. Their protective effect must be shown by assaying retinal over time. Glycerin, Panthenol and Sodium Hyaluronate in the emulsion version add moisture and support tolerance.
Key technical points
Water, light, concentration and assay
Free water is the main risk for retinal
A research formula combining retinal with glycolic acid in an oil-in-water emulsion at about pH 3.5 was described as showing good stability when stored at 40 °C, but the abstract gives no quantitative data (Bordat 2005 — company authors). The stability of any water-containing version must therefore be shown again by HPLC on the actual formula; the anhydrous version carries less risk.
Light degrades retinal — light-proof, airtight packaging
Outside the body, all-trans-retinal is degraded by visible light and accumulates degradation products absorbing around 330 nm (Rozanowska 2012 — a retina study on cultured cells, so indirect evidence). Packaging: airless bottles or aluminum tubes, light-blocking bottles; minimal air headspace; no wide-mouth jars or clear bottles without a carton.
Concentration: 0.05–0.1% is the range tested in humans
Human trials used 0.05% and 0.1% retinal creams (Creidi 1998, Kwon 2018, Deda 2026). In exploratory tolerance studies in 229 people, the 1% preparation was tolerated by up to 70% of users, 0.5% slightly better, while 0.1% and 0.05% on facial skin were well tolerated and used for up to 3 years — in patients with inflammatory skin conditions (Saurat 1994). There is no verified source on typical market levels; the final level is to be tested on the finished product.
Regulatory: no specific ASEAN limit, EU entry 376 does not include retinal
Retinal (CAS 116-31-4) is not listed in Annexes II, III or VI (06/2026 version) or Annex VII (12/2025 version) — Butter-C re-checked the annex files. Regulation (EU) 2024/996, Annex III entry 376 (0.3% retinol equivalent, vitamin A warning) covers only retinol, retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate and does not mention retinal; EU exports still need regulatory confirmation against the consolidated text before notification. No azelaic acid or prescription retinoids in the same formula.
Three formulation directions
Three styles of retinal serum
Anhydrous oil-based retinal serum
Retinal dissolved in Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Squalane with Tocopherol and BHT. With no water phase it avoids the main stability risk and needs no preservative system for water, but microbiology is still tested and oil oxidation monitored. Suits normal to dry skin and a short ingredient list.
Light-emulsion retinal serum
Retinal in the oil phase of a thin oil-in-water emulsion (Cetearyl Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol), with carrier oils chosen for retinal solubility, plus Glycerin, Panthenol and Sodium Hyaluronate. A lighter feel than the oil version, but retinal stability must be proven by real-time HPLC, with an ISO 11930 preservative challenge test and emulsion-stability monitoring.
Low-level retinal serum for first-time retinoid users
0.05% retinal — the lower level in the range of the Creidi 1998 and Kwon 2018 trials (in the creams used in those studies; the results do not transfer automatically to another formula) — in an oil base with Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Tocopherol, fragrance-free. The label says to start a few nights a week and build up as tolerated.
How it differs from our other pages
The retinol serum uses the alcohol form of vitamin A and follows the EU 0.3% benchmark; the night cream is a rich cream base that may contain a retinoid or bakuchiol; the bakuchiol serum uses a non-retinoid active. This page is for a serum named after retinal, built around stability in a low-water base, the levels tested and the directions for use of retinal itself.
Parameters we monitor
What the R&D lab measures on every sample
These are the parameters Butter-C tracks during formula development and scale-up. Specific limits are agreed with you on the approved sample and then written into the product's in-house specification.
- Incoming raw material file
- CAS, retinal content, isomers, retinoic acid impurity (as requested from the supplier), carrier and stabilizers supplied with it, supplier storage conditions.
- Retinal assay
- HPLC at the start and at each real-time stability point at room temperature; accelerated data for reference only.
- Appearance, color & odor
- Against the reference sample at each stability point; a color change or rancid oil odor triggers a re-assay.
- Light exposure in the final pack
- Light-exposure test in the exact bottle or tube to be used; retinal content compared before and after.
- pH & viscosity
- For the emulsion version: there is no verified optimal pH range for retinal, so pH is set on the sample through stability testing with assays; pH drift, viscosity and separation monitored.
- Microbiology & preservative challenge
- Tested at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory; water-containing versions undergo an ISO 11930 preservative efficacy (challenge) test on the final formula; the anhydrous version is still tested for microbiology.
- On-skin assessment
- Tolerance testing on the finished product; to state “skin looks smoother and more even-toned”, measure it on volunteers using the finished product itself.
- Packaging compatibility
- Filled into the exact airless bottle or tube; tightness, full dispensing and material odor monitored.
Claims
Claims matched to the evidence for retinal
Biological data in humans: retinal increases the retinoic acid-binding protein CRABP-2, and applying 0.05–0.5% for 1–3 months increased epidermal thickness in a dose-dependent way (Saurat 1994). A relative comparison under occlusion in an experimental ethanol–propylene glycol vehicle: the concentration needed for significant enzyme induction was 0.01% retinal, 0.025% retinol and 0.6% retinyl palmitate (Duell 1997) — this is not product efficacy and does not convert into “X times stronger than retinol”. Creidi 1998: three parallel groups, 125 people with photodamaged facial skin analyzed (40 on a 0.05% retinoic acid cream, 40 on a 0.05% retinal cream, 45 on the vehicle), measured on silicone replicas of the crow's feet area; at week 18 wrinkle and roughness features fell significantly in both active groups, at week 44 the reduction was less pronounced, and the vehicle group showed no significant change; the abstract does not describe how groups were assigned (PubMed indexes it as a randomized trial) and lists only the first author's affiliation (a university hospital). Kwon 2018: randomized, double-blind, 40 Korean women, a 0.1% or 0.05% cream twice daily for 3 months, the abstract does not describe a vehicle group; skin texture improved by 13.7% and 12.6%, hydration rose by 10.2% and 6.0%, with no difference between groups; only the 0.1% group lowered the melanin index (6.5%). Deda 2026: split-face 0.05% versus 0.1% in 56 women aged 30–58 over 24 weeks; the abstract reports neither randomization nor a vehicle side; PubMed lists funding from a company. Level of evidence: moderate to limited. The wrinkle results are described so you understand the ingredient; Annex 03-MP of Circular 06/2011/TT-BYT does not accept claims to prevent, reduce or reverse age-related changes, so the label uses only the cosmetic-level statements below.
Helps skin look smoother and more even-toned (to be tested on the finished product)
Basis: the retinal research above (even tone was seen only in the 0.1% group of Kwon 2018) plus assessment on volunteers using the finished product itself. Instead of: anti-aging, erases wrinkles, rejuvenates, skin renewal.
Night-time skin care; use sunscreen during the day (directions for use)
Retinal is degraded by light, and every retinoid product comes with a daytime sunscreen recommendation. Instead of: for day and night use with no need for sunscreen.
Contains retinal (retinaldehyde) — a form of vitamin A
State the INCI name Retinal; give a percentage only when assayed and stable to the end of the shelf life; do not convert it into “% retinol”. Instead of: as strong as tretinoin, prescription-grade retinoid, many times stronger than retinol, drug-like claims about acne, melasma or scars.
Directions: start a few nights a week, a small amount on dry skin
A 14-day repeated patch test (6 people): retinal and retinol had equally low irritation and retinoic acid more, but retinal caused more scaling than retinol; a 44-week follow-up (355 people): in the first 4 weeks the retinoic acid group had erythema in 44%, scaling in 35% and burning or itching in 29%, all significantly less frequent with retinal (Fluhr 1999). Dryness and mild flaking can still occur, especially early on; do not apply in the same session as high-strength AHA or BHA — use them at different times; if irritation persists, stop and see a dermatologist; sensitive skin should patch test first. Instead of: non-irritating, daily use from day one, suits every skin.
Note for pregnant and breastfeeding women
There is no study specific to retinal in pregnancy. A multicenter prospective study of 235 women exposed to topical retinoids (in general) in the first trimester versus 444 controls found no significant difference in miscarriage or birth defects, yet the authors concluded topical retinoids cannot be advised during pregnancy (Panchaud 2012). The label advises pregnant and breastfeeding women to ask a doctor before use. Instead of: safe for mothers-to-be.
Manufacturing specifications
Capabilities
- Texture
- A clear oil serum, yellow depending on the raw material, or an off-white fluid emulsion.
- Packaging format
- Airless bottles, aluminum tubes or light-blocking bottles. Volume agreed when packaging is selected.
- Minimum order quantity
- Agreed per order — depends on the formula direction, pack format and raw-material lot.
- Testing
- Performed at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory, with a certificate of analysis for every batch; retinal assayed along the stability plan.
- Documentation
- The Product Information File (PIF) and notification dossier are prepared by Butter-C, with the retinal COA, stability data and a safety assessment for the chosen retinal level.
- Packaging
- Label design, printing and packing run in parallel with formulation; the label carries evening-use and daytime sunscreen directions and the pregnancy note.
Suggested product concept
An oil-based retinal serum for first-time retinoid users
One product concept to help you picture the result; not a ready-made product for sale. The actual formula is built around your brand's positioning and price range.
Retinal as the featured ingredient
0.05% retinal, sourced per order with a COA for content and isomers; HPLC assay at the start and along the real-time stability plan.
Anhydrous oil base with antioxidants
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Tocopherol, BHT within the Annex III Ref 342 limit.
Fragrance-free
Removes one more source of irritation for first-time retinoid users; tolerance tested on the finished product.
Light-proof airless bottle
The label lists the INCI name Retinal, evening use, a few nights a week at first, daytime sunscreen and the pregnancy note; claims stop at “helps skin look smoother” after testing on the finished product.
Customization options
What you can specify
The same product type can serve very different customers. Tell us your requirements in the areas below and our pharmacists will build the matching formula.
Retinal level
0.05% or 0.1%, within the range tested in humans; higher levels need a separate safety assessment in the PIF because tolerance falls at 0.5–1% (Saurat 1994); any level is confirmed by tolerance and stability testing on the finished product.
Oil or emulsion base
An anhydrous oil base for stability and a short ingredient list; a light emulsion for a thin feel, at the cost of more stability work on retinal.
Supporting ingredients
Humectants and soothing agents (Panthenol, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate in the emulsion version); no high-strength AHA or BHA, other retinoids or azelaic acid in the same bottle.
Fragrance and color
Fragrance-free recommended; no added color — the yellow comes from the retinal itself.
Packaging
Airless, aluminum tube or light-blocking bottle; clear packaging without a carton and wide-mouth jars do not suit retinal.
Companion products
A daytime sunscreen and a gentle moisturizer in the same line to sell as a set, helping users follow the directions.
Further reading
Related topics
Retinal (retinaldehyde) in cosmetics
Mechanism, 0.05–0.1% data, tolerance compared with tretinoin and ASEAN regulations (in Vietnamese).
Retinol in cosmetics
Background on the retinoid family, EU vitamin A rules and low-irritation use (in Vietnamese).
Light and the skin
Why retinoid products come with daytime sunscreen directions (in Vietnamese).
Retinol serum OEM/ODM
Another direction: the alcohol form of vitamin A, with levels set against the EU benchmark.
Night cream OEM/ODM
Another direction: a rich cream base that may contain a retinoid or bakuchiol.
Bakuchiol serum OEM/ODM
Another direction: a plant-derived active that is not a retinoid.
How we work
From idea to finished batch
Eight steps and three milestones signed off by both sides: approved sample, notification number, finished batch. Step-by-step details (in Vietnamese) →
Get started
Tell us about the product you plan to launch
Send us your product direction and expected volume. Our team will get back to you during business hours (Vietnam time, GMT+7).
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