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Isododecane eye & lip makeup remover OEM/ODM manufacturing
Isododecane Eye & Lip Makeup Remover · OEM/ODM
Isododecane (INCI Isododecane) is a branched 12-carbon hydrocarbon made from isobutene, a colorless liquid that evaporates after application — neither a silicone nor a mineral oil. It is a familiar carrier solvent in mascara, eyeliner and long-wear lipstick: it dissolves film-forming resins and then evaporates, leaving a long-lasting color film. On the like-dissolves-like principle, placing isododecane in the oil layer of a bi-phase remover helps soften and lift those color films when the bottle is shaken and a cotton pad is held on the lashes or lips; how much it removes must be tested on the finished product, because no clinical trial has measured the performance of isododecane itself. The CIR Expert Panel (USA) concluded isododecane is safe in the present practices of use and concentration described; repeat patch tests on a mascara with 63.7% and a lip liner with 80.74% isododecane showed no irritation or sensitization. Two things need saying plainly: isododecane is a flammable liquid, so production, storage and labeling follow flammable-liquid rules; and it is not a “safer” copy of the cyclic silicone D5 — no source compares the two directly. After wiping, users rinse with water. Butter-C offers turnkey OEM/ODM manufacturing, from formulation and testing to a labeled finished product with its notification dossier.
Formula base
Isododecane layer on top, water layer below — no emulsifier
The physics of phase separation is covered on the bi-phase essence page; here the oil layer is not there to moisturize but to dissolve eye and lip makeup, which is then wiped away and rinsed off with water.
Oil phase: Isododecane
A mixture of C12 isoparaffins, mainly 2,2,4,6,6-pentamethylheptane (typically about 85%); density 0.75 g/ml at 20 °C, boiling range 176–192 °C, surface tension 22.6 mN/m (CIR 2012). CIR records reported levels of 3–67% in eye-area products and 3–84% in products that may be ingested, such as lipstick — market levels, not recommendations. The oil phase is about 30–50% of the formula (formulation experience).
Supporting oils (optional)
Isohexadecane — a C16 isoparaffin in the same 2012 CIR report, less volatile; Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (specific gravity 0.92–0.96 per CIR) feels less dry but makes the oil phase heavier and slower to separate. A review by Goussard et al. (2022) notes that combining alkanes with esters improves solubility of polar ingredients and skin feel.
Water phase
Water, Sodium Chloride to make the water phase heavier for a clean split, Panthenol and Glycerin at low levels (formulation experience); Sodium Citrate – Citric Acid hold the pH; Disodium EDTA chelates metal ions.
What stays out of the formula
Emulsifiers and solubilizers: even a small amount can cloud the interface and slow re-separation (formulation experience, as on the bi-phase essence page). Fragrance: fragrance-free is recommended for products used on the eyes and lips.
Key technical points
Flammability, eyes and lips, hydrocarbon impurities, water-phase preservation
The four items below are settled before sampling; the first one concerns the plant, not just the formula.
A flammable liquid in the plant
Most classification notifications to ECHA (compiled by PubChem, CAS 13475-82-6) list H226 — flammable liquid and vapor; CIR (Table 2) gives a flash point of 56.7 ± 8.1 °C, to be checked against the supplier’s SDS. Mixing at room temperature in closed vessels, ventilation, anti-static grounding, equipment suited to flammable-vapor areas, no open heating; keep away from strong oxidizers (CIR). Evaporation losses are built into weighing and filling allowances.
Eyes and lips: the data available
CIR 2012: not irritating in rabbit eyes; HET-CAM negative for materials containing 20% and 50% isododecane; a 63.7% mascara used for 5 days by 10 women caused no eye irritation; an 80.74% lip liner in a repeat patch test on 108 people caused no irritation or sensitization. Occlusive patches of 10%, 20% and 50% in petrolatum on 20 people produced irritation; isoparaffins are slightly to moderately irritating under occlusion but not in non-occluded tests (Mullin et al., 1990; authors from a chemical company). The finished product still needs its own eye irritation testing.
Hydrocarbon impurities and identity
CIR quotes one manufacturer’s specification: C12 hydrocarbons ≥ 98%, C8 plus C16 ≤ 2%, aromatics ≤ 1 mg/kg, sulfur ≤ 1 mg/kg, peroxides ≤ 1 mg/kg — compare actual COAs against similar parameters. A PubChem search for the name “isododecane” returns 2-methylundecane, not the main isomer; check the CAS on the COA against the four CAS numbers CIR lists (141-70-8, 13475-82-6, 31807-55-3, 93685-81-5). Isododecane is not named in ASEAN Annexes II, III, VI or VII.
Preserving the water phase
Microorganisms grow in the water phase. Phenoxyethanol ≤ 1% (Annex VI Ref 29) partitions between the two phases; the more lipophilic the oil phase, the more stays in the water phase (Puschmann 2018, per the phenoxyethanol article). ISO 11930 challenge testing is run on the finished bi-phase product, not on the water phase alone.
Three formulation directions
Three bi-phase eye and lip removers built on isododecane
Unlike a single-phase micellar water (surfactant in water) and a cleansing oil (an oil phase with emulsifiers so it rinses off), the bi-phase format uses a light, volatile oil to soften long-wear color and then wipes it away. Makeup that dissolves quickly needs less rubbing: in 35 women with mild facial atopic dermatitis, switching to a cleansing oil that needed less rubbing for 4 weeks was accompanied by less dryness, scaling, redness and itching (Hosokawa et al., 2021; most authors from a cosmetics company; the abstract describes no control group) — a medical context, cited to explain the design, not as a claim.
Basic isododecane – water bi-phase
Isododecane is the whole oil phase; the water phase carries salt and panthenol; colorless, fragrance-free. Feels dry quickly after wiping because most of the oil phase evaporates (principle; “quick-drying” is measured on the finished product).
Isododecane – isohexadecane
A less volatile C16 isoparaffin keeps the oil layer on lashes and lips a little longer before wiping; it still separates cleanly because both are light hydrocarbons (formulation experience).
Isododecane – ester for a softer feel
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is added to the oil phase: less dry feel after wiping; in exchange the oil phase is heavier, re-separates more slowly and may leave a light oil film — all the more reason to rinse with water.
Packaging is designed with the formula
Clear PET or glass to show both layers, tight screw cap; volatile solvent can creep through threads and swell plastics and gaskets — weight-loss and compatibility tests in the actual pack (formulation experience). US export: non-emulsion liquid cosmetics with 10% or more hydrocarbons and a viscosity under 100 SUS at 100 °F require child-resistant packaging (16 CFR 1700.14(a)(32)) — to be confirmed by regulatory affairs.
Parameters we monitor
What our R&D team measures on every sample
These are the parameters Butter-C tracks during formulation and scale-up. Specific limits are agreed with you on the approved sample and then written into the product’s in-house specification.
- Isododecane incoming check
- COA: CAS, C12 hydrocarbon content, aromatics, sulfur, peroxides; SDS with flash point; both kept in the Product Information File (PIF).
- Re-separation time
- Shaken to a fixed protocol and timed until the two layers fully separate; measured at 4 °C and 40 °C.
- Interface & clarity of each layer
- A sharp interface, no flakes, no film, no milky residue; compared with the reference sample kept in R&D.
- Phase ratio & weight loss
- Height of each layer after filling; weight loss through the pack at elevated temperature — a sign of isododecane escaping through the cap.
- Water-phase pH
- Measured on the separated water phase at 25 °C; drift tracked across stability time points.
- Makeup removal
- Tested on waterproof mascara, eyeliner and long-wear lipstick under an internal protocol, against a control.
- Stability
- Accelerated aging at 40 °C, freeze–thaw cycling and light exposure in the final pack: haze, odor change, cap leakage.
- Microbiology & challenge test
- Tested at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory; preservative efficacy (challenge) test to ISO 11930 on the finished bi-phase product.
- Eye and lip safety
- Skin irritation testing; eye irritation screening and an in-use test on volunteers when the label claims eye-area use or makes any eye statement.
Claims
Claims for a bi-phase eye and lip makeup remover
Isododecane is a functional ingredient, not an active: the ingredient article’s PubMed search (29 October 2026) found no clinical trial of the skin performance of isododecane itself — limited evidence. Human data are mostly safety tests on mascara and lip liner. Statements on makeup removal, after-feel and the eyes rest on finished-product tests; Butter-C reviews label and marketing wording when preparing the notification dossier.
Removes eye and lip makeup (once makeup-removal tests are done on the finished product)
“Removes waterproof mascara and long-wear lipstick” only after testing on those exact types. Instead of: removes every kind of makeup in one swipe, no rubbing needed.
Light, quick-drying, non-greasy texture (once sensory tests are done)
Instead of: non-comedogenic — CIR only has a rabbit-ear test (3 animals).
Free of cyclic silicones D4, D5, D6 (only when COAs of every silicone ingredient report residues)
“Silicone-free” only when the formula contains no silicone at all. Instead of: safer than silicones, more eco-friendly than D5.
Low eye sting (only after an in-use test on people with the finished product)
Not stated by default. Instead of: no eye sting, gentle for sensitive eyes, suitable for contact lens wearers.
Label reminders
Shake well before use; soak a cotton pad, hold on lashes or lips for a few seconds, wipe gently, then rinse with water; avoid contact with eyes, and if contact occurs rinse with plenty of water; remove contact lenses before use — in a laboratory study, a cleansing oil containing mineral oil and surfactant (not isododecane) was absorbed by four of seven silicone hydrogel lens brands tested (Tsukiyama et al., 2017); keep away from flames (per the finished product’s safety assessment) and out of reach of children. Instead of: suitable for everyone, every age.
Young children, pregnancy
Not positioned for young children: most ECHA notifications classify the raw material H304 (may be fatal if swallowed and enters airways); aspiration during ingestion can cause severe lung injury (Mullin et al., 1990). Pregnancy and breastfeeding: not enough data, ask a doctor. Instead of: safe for mothers-to-be and babies.
Manufacturing specifications
Available capabilities
- Texture
- Two clear liquid layers: a light isododecane layer on top, water below; shakes into small droplets and separates again at rest.
- Format
- Clear bottle with a tight screw cap or flip-top; child-resistant closure for US export. Volume agreed when choosing packaging.
- Minimum order quantity
- Agreed per order — depends on the formula direction and format chosen.
- Testing
- Tested at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory, with a certificate of analysis delivered with every lot.
- Dossier
- Product Information File (PIF) and cosmetic product notification prepared by Butter-C, with the isododecane COA and SDS.
- Packaging
- Label design, printing and packing run in parallel with formulation; the label carries “shake before use”, rinse-off directions and warnings.
Suggested product concept
Fragrance-free isododecane bi-phase eye & lip makeup remover
One product direction to help you picture the idea — not a ready-made product for sale. The actual formula is built around your brand’s positioning and price range.
Isododecane
The whole oil phase; COA states C12 content and aromatics; SDS gives the flash point.
Water, Sodium Chloride, Panthenol
A water phase heavy enough for a clean split; panthenol as a light humectant.
Phenoxyethanol – Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol ≤ 1% (Annex VI Ref 29), passed ISO 11930 challenge testing on the finished bi-phase product; no emulsifier, fragrance-free.
Clear PET screw-cap bottle
Both layers visible; label with “shake before use”, rinse with water, avoid contact with eyes, keep away from flames.
Customization options
What you can specify
The same format can serve very different customers. Tell us your requirements in the areas below and our pharmacists will build the matching formula.
Phase ratio
More oil for waterproof mascara and long-wear lipstick; less oil for a lighter feel — affects separation time and the look of the bottle.
Supporting oils
Isododecane on its own, with isohexadecane or with an ester — changes evaporation speed and after-feel.
Color
Colorless or one layer tinted with a colorant listed in Annex IV and permitted for the eye area; fade testing in a clear bottle.
Export markets
EU: D5 at 0.1% or more is banned in wash-off cosmetics after 31 January 2020 and in other cosmetics after 6 June 2027 (Regulation (EU) 2024/1328, which names only D4, D5, D6) — isododecane is outside that entry but is not a one-for-one D5 replacement. US: child-resistant packaging under 16 CFR 1700.14(a)(32).
Area of use
Eyes and lips; turning it into a full-face remover means rebalancing the oil ratio and the rinse-off directions.
Ingredient positioning
Fragrance-free, alcohol-free; “free of cyclic silicones” with supporting COAs — please specify at the start so the right raw materials are chosen.
Further reading
Related knowledge
Isododecane in cosmetics
A volatile oil: CIR conclusion, use levels, irritation, flammability and comparison with D5 (in Vietnamese).
Micellar water OEM/ODM manufacturing
Single-phase micellar and bi-phase oil–water formats.
Bi-phase essence OEM/ODM manufacturing
Phase-separation physics: density, salt, the interface and two-phase preservation.
Cleansing oil OEM/ODM manufacturing
An oil phase with emulsifiers so it rinses off with water.
Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) in cosmetics
The volatile cyclic silicone and its EU restrictions (in Vietnamese).
Double cleansing
Rubbing during makeup removal and contact lenses (in Vietnamese).
How we work
From idea to finished batch
Eight steps and three milestones signed off by both sides: approved sample, notification number, finished batch. Step-by-step details →
Get started
Tell us about the product you plan to launch
Send us your product direction and expected volume. Our team will get back to you during business hours (Vietnam time, GMT+7).
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