BUTTER-C
Signature ingredients
Trehalose essence OEM/ODM manufacturing
Trehalose Essence · Signature Ingredients · OEM/ODM
Trehalose is a disaccharide of two glucose units joined by an α-1,1 bond, with no reducing end; it occurs in fungi, yeasts, bacteria and insects, and the industrial raw material is produced from starch by enzymes. Trehalose is often marketed with images of organisms that survive complete drying — but that is the biology of drought-tolerant organisms and of freeze-dried biological products, not evidence about skin. In cosmetics, trehalose is declared as a humectant; the CIR Expert Panel (USA, 2019) concluded that trehalose is safe in the present practices of use and concentration; the 2013 survey cited in the report lists maximum concentrations of 0.00055–2% in leave-on products. A PubMed search on 25 October 2026 found no controlled trial applying trehalose alone to human skin; the human data available come from a multi-ingredient cream, an oral spray and artificial tears. Butter-C's trehalose essence is therefore a light, fragrance-free water-based essence in which trehalose is the signature humectant alongside glycerin and other familiar humectants, with claims at the level of “helps hold moisture, leaves skin feeling moisturized and smooth” (tested on the finished product). Trehalose is not stocked at the plant, so it is sourced per order with a COA. Butter-C offers full-service OEM/ODM manufacturing, from formula development and testing to labeled finished product with its notification dossier.
Formula base
A light water base with trehalose as the signature humectant
Trehalose is highly soluble in water, so the essence is built on a water base without oil. Trehalose is the named ingredient; familiar humectants accompany it; a sugar-containing water base is something microorganisms can feed on, so the preservative system must be confirmed by a challenge test.
Trehalose — anhydrous or dihydrate
INCI Trehalose; CAS 99-20-7 (anhydrous), 6138-23-4 (dihydrate), EC 202-739-6. The commercial product is usually the dihydrate (EU Decision 2001/721/EC); molecular weights are 342.30 versus 378.33 g/mol, so the formula sheet and weighing sheet must state which form is used. Not to be confused with derivatives that have their own INCI names, such as Sodium Trehalose Sulfate or Trehalose Undecylenoate — their data are not shared.
Companion humectants
Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Betaine, Panthenol; Sodium Hyaluronate at a low level if a layered moist feel is wanted. There is no direct comparison of trehalose with these ingredients on skin, so glycerin and the whole base are the main basis for a moisturizing claim when measured on the finished product.
Viscosity framework
A watery essence needs almost no thickener; a lightly viscous version uses Xanthan Gum or Hydroxyethylcellulose — these tolerate electrolytes such as Sodium PCA better than Carbomer.
Preservation and stability
Phenoxyethanol at a maximum of 1.0% (ASEAN Annex VI Ref 29) with Ethylhexylglycerin; Disodium EDTA. A preservative efficacy (challenge) test to ISO 11930 is mandatory.
Key technical points
Four issues specific to an essence named after trehalose
The general hydrating base is covered on the general page; the four items below concern the trehalose raw material itself.
Biological data are not skin data
The review by Crowe et al. (1998) summarizes evidence that sucrose and trehalose stabilize membranes and proteins in the dry state, most likely through hydrogen bonding to polar groups, and that both this direct interaction and a glassy (vitrified) state are required; trehalose has a high glass-transition temperature and forms a dihydrate crystal when a little water is added. That is a mechanism in drought-tolerant organisms and in the preservation of biological products. Dai et al. (2025) found that trehalose restored differentiation markers and barrier function in keratinocytes and living skin equivalents challenged with IL-4/IL-13 — laboratory data, with no concentration given in the abstract. Neither becomes a product claim.
Human data belong to other settings
Sparavigna et al. (2014): a multi-ingredient cream for rosacea (trehalose, cholesterol, ceramide, fatty acids, soothing extracts, UV filters), open-label, 20 healthy subjects and 22 patients, authors from a company — results of the whole formula, with no trehalose level stated. Miyai et al. (2025): a 10% trehalose oral spray versus distilled water, randomized, double-blind, crossover, 9 participants analyzed — no difference in bad breath, oral moisture rose immediately after spraying (p = 0.047); the study was funded through a joint research effort with a company. Ballesteros-Sanchez et al. (2023): a systematic review of 10 randomized trials of trehalose artificial tears for dry eye disease. These are medical or mucosal settings, not applicable to cosmetics applied to skin.
Concentration: market levels per CIR
The 2013 survey cited by CIR (Fiume et al., 2019) lists maximum reported concentrations: leave-on products 0.00055–2%, rinse-off 0.0001–1%, eye area 0.02–1.1%. These are market concentrations, not recommendations or levels with evidence of benefit; the level in the essence is chosen within this leave-on range and fixed by sensory testing (stickiness) on samples. Miyai's 10% oral spray is a test product and outside the scope of this page.
Dissolution, stability and regulation
According to CIR, trehalose is very soluble in water, very chemically stable and does not split into two simple sugars unless exposed to extreme hydrolytic conditions or the enzyme trehalase; the dihydrate is low in hygroscopicity. The sources checked give no stable pH range in a formula — it is set by stability testing, while tracking clarity and crystallization in the cold. Trehalose (CAS 99-20-7, 6138-23-4, EC 202-739-6, synonym mycose) is not in ASEAN Annexes II, III and VI (version 2026-1) or Annex VII (version 2025-2).
Three formulation directions
Three forms of trehalose essence
Watery trehalose – glycerin essence
Trehalose, glycerin, butylene glycol; as fluid as water, patted on by hand after cleansing, morning and evening. A short ingredient list, for normal and combination skin.
Lightly viscous trehalose – hyaluronate essence
Adds low-level Sodium Hyaluronate and Xanthan Gum for a plumper, smoother feel; trehalose remains the named ingredient — unlike the HA hydrating serum, where hyaluronic acid in several molecular sizes is the named ingredient.
Trehalose – betaine – panthenol essence for dry skin
More humectants (betaine, panthenol, sodium PCA), thickened with Hydroxyethylcellulose; for dry or dehydrated skin in air-conditioned rooms. Humectants work better when an occlusive cream is layered on top — the label can suggest using a moisturizer after the essence.
Packaging is designed with the formula
Pump bottles or narrow-neck screw-cap bottles limit contamination during use; dropper bottles expose the product to more hand and air contact and need a stricter challenge test. This page does not cover mist sprays.
Parameters we monitor
What our R&D lab measures on every sample
Below are the parameters Butter-C monitors during formula development and scale-up to production. Specific limits are agreed with you on the approved sample, then written into the product's in-house specification.
- Incoming trehalose raw material
- COA of each lot checked: INCI, anhydrous or dihydrate form, assay, moisture or loss on drying, heavy metals (lead), microbiology. CIR cites food-grade specifications for trehalose; for cosmetics, limits follow the supplier's COA.
- Appearance & clarity
- Color, odor, clarity; tracking haze and crystallization over time.
- pH
- Measured at 25 °C; the pH range is fixed by stability testing because the sources checked give no stable pH range for trehalose in a formula.
- Viscosity
- Measured with a rotational viscometer at 25 °C for the lightly viscous version; spindle and speed recorded.
- Stability
- Accelerated aging at 40 °C, cold storage and freeze–thaw cycling in the final packaging; tracking crystallization at low temperature, clarity, viscosity and pH.
- Microbiology & challenge test
- Tested at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory; preservative efficacy (challenge) test to ISO 11930.
- Irritation & sensitization
- Patch testing on volunteers before the formula is locked — the CIR report contains no repeat-insult patch test specific to trehalose; required if the label says “suitable for sensitive skin”.
- Skin hydration
- Measured instrumentally on volunteers with a vehicle control — when you want to state a hydration figure.
- Stickiness
- Sensory evaluation on samples using an in-house scale — the sources searched contain no sensory test specific to trehalose.
Claims
Claims at the moisturizing level
CosIng lists trehalose's functions as humectant and moisturising; a declared function is not evidence of benefit. We have not found any controlled trial applying trehalose alone to human skin (PubMed search, 25 October 2026); the “protection during drying” data are biological, the barrier data come from cultured cells, and the human data come from a multi-ingredient cream, an oral spray and artificial tears. Butter-C reviews label and marketing wording against Annex 03-MP of Circular 06/2011/TT-BYT when preparing the notification dossier.
Helps hold moisture, leaves skin feeling moisturized and smooth
Figures are stated only after measurement on the finished product. Instead of: “more moisturizing than hyaluronic acid or glycerin”, “locks in water like desert organisms”.
Contains trehalose — a sugar-based humectant
An ingredient and story claim; the production route (from starch by enzymes) as declared by the supplier. Instead of: “resurrection sugar”, “survival-in-drought technology”, “protects skin cells from water loss”.
Helps skin feel soft
Requires testing on the finished product. Instead of: restoring the skin barrier, boosting filaggrin, cellular anti-aging — those data exist only in cultured cells.
Light, non-sticky feel
Stated only after sensory evaluation on samples. Instead of: “non-sticky” without testing.
No borrowing of eye, mouth or rosacea data
Annex 03-MP limits cosmetics to external contact sites (epidermis, hair, nails, lips, external genital organs, teeth and the oral mucosa); the eyeball is not on that list. Instead of: “works like artificial tears”, “reduces rosacea”, “relieves dry mouth”.
Label advice, pregnancy
A PubMed search (10/2026) found no report of contact dermatitis from trehalose; reactions also depend on fragrance and preservatives — the label advises testing on a small area first and avoiding the eyes. Pregnancy and breastfeeding: no specific data, so asking a doctor is advised. Instead of: “non-irritating”, “safe for pregnancy”.
Manufacturing specifications
Our capabilities
- Texture
- Watery or lightly viscous; clear to slightly hazy depending on the thickener.
- Pack formats
- Pump bottle, screw-cap bottle or dropper bottle. Volume agreed when selecting packaging.
- Trehalose sourcing
- Not stocked at the plant; sourced per order, with a COA required for every lot.
- Minimum order quantity
- Agreed per order, depending on the trehalose raw material, formula direction and pack format.
- Testing
- Performed at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory; certificate of analysis delivered with every lot.
- Documentation
- Product Information File (PIF) and cosmetic product notification dossier prepared by Butter-C, with a trehalose COA stating the INCI name and anhydrous or dihydrate form.
- Packaging
- Label design, printing and packing run in parallel with formula development.
Suggested product concept
Fragrance-free trehalose essence for dehydrated skin
A product concept to help you picture the result, not a ready-made product for sale. The actual formula is developed around your brand's positioning and price range.
Trehalose
The named ingredient, at a level within the range CIR records for leave-on products; anhydrous or dihydrate form stated on the formula sheet.
Glycerin, Betaine
Hold water in the stratum corneum — the main basis for a moisturizing claim when measured on the finished product.
Low-level Sodium Hyaluronate
Additional humectant; kept low so the essence is not sticky.
100 ml pump bottle, fragrance-free
Limits contamination during use; the label carries the small-area test advice and suggests a moisturizer after the essence.
Customization options
What you can specify
The same product type can serve very different customer groups. Tell us your requirements in the areas below and our pharmacists will develop the matching formula.
Texture
Watery or lightly viscous — decides the thickener and the feel when patting it on.
Companion ingredients
Glycerin, Betaine, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Sodium Hyaluronate; choose a few, without overloading the formula.
Ingredient story
“Humectant disaccharide”, “made from starch” — worded per the supplier's statement; images of “resurrected” organisms are not used as a benefit.
Scent and color
Fragrance-free and colorless recommended.
Ingredient positioning
Alcohol-free, fragrance-free, vegan — “vegan” needs a supplier statement on the enzymatic process and a review of the whole formula.
Packaging
Pump, screw cap or dropper — decides how strict the challenge test must be.
Further reading
Related knowledge
Trehalose in cosmetics
Separating biological, laboratory and human data; concentrations per CIR, safety and the limits of claims (in Vietnamese).
HA hydrating serum manufacturing
The general hydrating serum page, where hyaluronic acid in several molecular sizes is the named ingredient.
Polyglutamic acid serum manufacturing
Another humectant named in a water base — the data are not shared.
Glycerin in cosmetics
The base humectant that usually accompanies trehalose (in Vietnamese).
Dry skin and dehydrated skin
Telling oil-poor skin from water-poor skin; why humectants need an occlusive layer (in Vietnamese).
How we work
From idea to finished batch
Eight steps and three milestones signed off by both sides: approved sample, notification number, finished batch. Step-by-step details (in Vietnamese) →
Get started
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