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Jelly mask OEM/ODM manufacturing
Jelly Mask · OEM/ODM
Carrageenan is a polysaccharide extracted from red seaweed and has long given many jelly desserts their set. In cosmetics, the same INCI name "Carrageenan" can give a firm gel, a soft elastic gel or simply a thickened liquid, depending on whether it is the kappa, iota or lambda form and whether the formula contains potassium or calcium ions. A jelly mask uses exactly this property: a clear, water-rich set gel applied as a thick layer for a cooling feel and to moisturize dry, tight skin. It has to be said up front that carrageenan is a texturizer, not a skin-care active: our PubMed search found no human study measuring a skin benefit of carrageenan on its own, so the "moisturizes" claim rests on the humectants in the formula and on testing of the finished product. The hard part is formulation: dissolving hot while avoiding acid, choosing the carrageenan form and ion level so the gel neither crumbles nor weeps water, and preserving a water-rich seaweed gum system. This page focuses on the jar jelly mask; hydrogel sheet masks are described so you can tell the two apart. Butter-C offers turnkey OEM/ODM manufacturing, from formula development and testing to labeled finished goods and the notification dossier.
Formula base
Carrageenan, gelling ions and water
A jelly mask is almost entirely water "set" by a polysaccharide. The four groups below are chosen together, because changing one changes the firmness, clarity and stability of the gel.
Carrageenan: choosing the right form
A sulfated polygalactan from red seaweed of the Gigartinaceae and Solieriaceae families (CIR 2015). Kappa gels in the presence of potassium ions; iota forms an elastic gel network whose gelling temperature depends on calcium ions; lambda does not gel and only thickens (Diener 2019; Bui 2019). Because all of them share the INCI name "Carrageenan", the raw material file must state the form or blend ratio, the counter-ion and the gel strength with its test conditions.
Gelling ions
Potassium chloride for kappa, calcium chloride for iota. The ion level is fixed by testing and must count the ions carried in by water, extracts, salt-form actives and salt-form preservatives; excess ions are one cause of water weeping out of the gel.
Humectant group
Glycerin, butylene glycol, trehalose, panthenol and sodium hyaluronate are the main basis for the moisturizing claim. Sodium hyaluronate undergoes chain scission when heated (Caspersen 2014), so it goes in late, once the mix has cooled but before it sets.
The material Butter-C holds
The carrageenan in stock is labeled as a food additive grade. For cosmetic use, every lot needs a TDS/COA stating the carrageenan form, gel strength, microbiology and heavy metals; the supplier is asked whether it is standardized with sugar or salt — if so, those substances count in the formula and are listed on the label. Hydrolyzed carrageenan is not used (CIR found the data insufficient).
Key technical points
Heat, acid, ions and syneresis: four points that make or break a jelly
Dissolve hot, lower the pH later
According to data cited by CIR, sodium-form carrageenans are reasonably stable when heated at 75 °C down to pH 4; the rate of chain scission rises sharply as pH falls from 4 to 3, and kappa is more sensitive to acid hydrolysis than iota. Kappa with potassium lost 25% of its molecular weight after 28 seconds at 90 °C and pH 3. So the powder is dispersed in glycerin, dissolved hot at near-neutral pH, and acid is added only after cooling.
Pouring temperature and when to add actives
With both KCl and CaCl2 present, the gelling temperature of kappa is set by the KCl concentration and that of iota by CaCl2 (Bui 2019), so the pouring temperature is measured on the actual formula rather than taken from a generic figure. Hyaluronate, panthenol and fragrance (if any) go in just above the gelling temperature with quick mixing, and the gel is poured into jars before it sets.
Firm or soft: blending kappa and iota
Kappa gels are firm but tend to crumble when scooped; iota gels are soft and elastic (formulation experience, consistent with the structures described by Diener 2019). At equal salt concentration, iota is stiffest with CaCl2 alone, while kappa and mixed gels are stiffer with both salts; potassium makes the mixed network more homogeneous and less turbid (Bui 2019), which helps a clear jelly.
Syneresis and chelators
Excess gelling ions or an unsuitable gelling-agent level make water weep onto the jelly surface over time (syneresis). Chelators (disodium EDTA, citrate) bind calcium and may weaken an iota–calcium gel (chemical inference), so their level is tested alongside gel strength. Any salt from newly added actives or extracts means re-testing syneresis.
Three formulation directions
Two jar jellies and the hydrogel sheet mask
The jar jelly mask and the hydrogel sheet mask both use gelling polysaccharides, but they are different products in process, equipment and packaging.
Clear set jelly in a jar
A kappa–iota blend with KCl and CaCl2, hot-filled into the jar and left to set in place. Scooped with a spatula, applied as a thick layer for 10–15 minutes, then the excess is scraped off and the thin remaining layer patted in — which is why the product is assessed for safety as a leave-on.
Soft, easy-spread jelly
Elastic iota–calcium gel with a small amount of xanthan gum: a soft gel that can be stirred lightly in the jar and spread thinner. Suits users who prefer a thin layer or use it as the last step in the evening.
Hydrogel sheet mask (for comparison)
A gel sheet cast in a mold on a backing layer, cut to a face shape and sealed in individual pouches; sheets are usually based on carrageenan, gellan, agar or alginate (Butter-C formulation handbook). It needs dedicated casting, gelling, cutting and packing equipment: feasibility depends on equipment and order scale and should be discussed first. Changing the impregnating liquid means re-testing sheet strength and syneresis.
Packaging is designed with the formula
A clear jar so the jelly is visible, made of a material that tolerates the fill temperature; an inner lid and a spatula to limit finger contact. Capping while still hot tends to leave condensation on the jelly surface, so cooling and capping times are fixed by testing (formulation experience).
Parameters we monitor
What our R&D lab measures on every sample
These are the parameters Butter-C monitors during formula development and scale-up. Specific limits are agreed with you on the approved sample and then written into the product's in-house specification.
- Appearance & clarity
- Color, odor and clarity of the jelly; checked for air bubbles and cloudy zones against the reference sample kept in our R&D lab.
- Gel strength
- Compression or penetration force measured with a texture analyzer under fixed conditions (temperature, time after filling); a study of kappa-carrageenan hydrogels containing calendula extract reported a compressive modulus of 14.1–23.2 kPa (Kozlowska 2026) — cited only to illustrate the method, limits are set on the sample.
- Syneresis
- Weight of water released on the jelly surface at each stability time point — the defining parameter of an ionic gel product.
- pH
- Measured on the gel at 25°C; pH before gelling is also recorded to track drift.
- Gelling and pouring temperature
- Determined on the final formula and recorded in the batch record; a shift in ion concentration shifts the gelling temperature.
- Stability
- Accelerated aging at 40°C and freeze–thaw cycling: softening, melting, syneresis, color and odor changes.
- Incoming raw material microbiology
- A microbiology certificate of analysis for every lot of carrageenan and gum; seaweed gums vary between lots and carry a microbial load (Butter-C formulation handbook).
- Microbiology & challenge test
- Tested at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory; preservative efficacy (challenge) test to ISO 11930 on the set gel — repeated when the gum source changes.
- On-skin evaluation
- Adhesion during application, cooling feel, tackiness after scraping off; irritation testing as the target market requires.
Claims
Claims that match what carrageenan actually does
Carrageenan builds the jelly; it is not an active. No human study measuring a skin benefit of carrageenan on its own was found (PubMed search, October 2026), so the level of evidence is limited. Iota-carrageenan nasal spray trials belong to a medical context and are not used for cosmetics. Moisturizing and cooling-feel claims rest on the whole formula and on testing of the finished product. Butter-C reviews label and marketing wording when preparing the notification dossier.
Moisturizes, leaves skin softer and smoother after use
Hydration figures only when measured on the finished product. Instead of: skin restoration or regeneration claims.
Gives a cool, soothing feel during application
A sensory claim confirmed by user evaluation. Instead of: lowers skin temperature, reduces swelling.
Relieves the feeling of dryness and tightness
Instead of: claims of acting on irritated or reddened skin.
Jelly texture from red seaweed carrageenan
Only when the TDS/COA confirms the source. Instead of: draws out toxins, detoxifies skin, safe because it is edible, hypoallergenic, any claim about viruses.
Directions for use
Amount to use, application time, use a clean spatula, close tightly after use. Do not state "leave on overnight" unless evaluated.
Warnings
Avoid the eye area; patch test on a small area first; stop use if irritation occurs. People who have had an allergic reaction to carrageenan should consult a doctor; pregnant or breastfeeding women: no specific data, consult a doctor.
Manufacturing specifications
Current capabilities
- Texture
- Clear set jelly or soft easy-spread jelly; colorless or lightly tinted to suit the label.
- Format
- Jar with inner lid and spatula. Hydrogel sheet masks: depending on equipment and order scale, to be discussed. Pack size agreed when choosing packaging.
- Minimum order quantity
- Agreed per order — depends on the formula direction and format chosen.
- Testing
- Tested at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory; a certificate of analysis accompanies every batch.
- Documentation
- Product Information File (PIF) and cosmetic product notification dossier prepared by Butter-C, with the carrageenan TDS/COA for each lot.
- Packaging
- Label design, printing and packing run in parallel with formula development.
Suggested product concept
Clear moisturizing jelly mask for dry, tight skin
A product direction to help you picture the concept — not a ready-made product for sale. The actual formula is built around your brand's positioning and price range.
Kappa–iota carrageenan
Gives the product its texture; the ratio of the two forms and the KCl and CaCl2 levels are fixed by gel strength and syneresis.
Glycerin, trehalose, panthenol, sodium hyaluronate
The humectant group behind the moisturizing claim; hyaluronate goes in close to the gelling temperature.
Fragrance-free, alcohol-free
Phenoxyethanol/ethylhexylglycerin preservative system (phenoxyethanol ≤ 1% per Annex VI), challenge-tested to ISO 11930 on the set gel.
Clear jar with spatula
The label lists all INCI names, application and scrape-off directions, and advice to patch test on a small area.
Customization options
What you can specify
The same product type can serve very different customers. Tell us your requirements in the areas below and our pharmacists will build the formula accordingly.
Jelly firmness
Firm like a dessert jelly or soft and spreadable — this sets the kappa/iota ratio and ion levels.
Humectants and soothing ingredients
Glycerin, trehalose, betaine, panthenol, sodium hyaluronate; a few well-chosen ones rather than a long list.
Additional actives
Every salt-form active or extract changes the gel — strength and syneresis are re-tested before sign-off.
Color and fragrance
Colorless and fragrance-free, or lightly tinted; only colorants permitted in cosmetics, with fading tested in the clear jar.
Product format
The jar jelly is the main direction; hydrogel sheet masks are discussed separately in terms of equipment and scale.
Ingredient positioning
Vegan (red seaweed carrageenan, carrier confirmed with the supplier), alcohol-free, paraben-free — please state these at the start.
Further reading
Related knowledge
Carrageenan (red seaweed gum) in cosmetics
Kappa, iota, lambda; the CIR conclusion; poligeenan, and why nasal sprays are not a cosmetic use (in Vietnamese).
Sheet mask OEM/ODM manufacturing
A fiber sheet soaked in liquid essence — a different kind of mask from a jelly.
Sleeping mask OEM/ODM manufacturing
A thin film-forming overnight layer, unlike a thick jelly layer applied for a short time.
Xanthan gum in cosmetics
The polysaccharide thickener used in the soft jelly version (in Vietnamese).
Hyaluronic acid in cosmetics
The humectant in the jelly and why prolonged heating is avoided (in Vietnamese).
Preservative challenge testing to ISO 11930
Mandatory for water-rich seaweed gum gels (in Vietnamese).
How we work
From idea to finished batch
Eight steps and three milestones signed off by both sides: approved sample, notification number, finished batch. Step-by-step details (in Vietnamese) →
Get started
Tell us about the product you plan to launch
Send us your product direction and expected volume. Our team will get back to you during business hours (Vietnam time, GMT+7).
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