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Sodium cocoyl glycinate facial cleanser OEM/ODM manufacturing
Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate Facial Cleanser · OEM/ODM
Sodium cocoyl glycinate (INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, SCG) is the sodium salt of the amide formed from coconut fatty acid chloride and glycine, an anionic surfactant of the acyl amino acid group. "Amino acid-based" describes the molecular structure: according to the CIR report, this group is usually made by a synthetic acylation reaction, so SCG is not a natural extract and not a skin-nourishing amino acid either. In a facial cleanser it cleanses, gives a fine foam and lets you describe the formula as "sulfate-free". The point often misunderstood: SCG is a carboxylate salt, so lowering the pH toward "skin pH" can make the system hazy, precipitate or thicken into a gel. In a 10% solution SCG shows two apparent pKa steps at pH 6.9 and 4.5 and forms a gel network on its own at about pH 5 (Chinelli et al., 2026). On mildness, the CIR Expert Panel concluded the group is safe "when formulated to be nonirritating", but there are no irritation tests specific to SCG, and no human study has compared SCG on its own directly with another cleanser. This page focuses on what is specific to glycinate as the primary surfactant: choosing the pH, co-surfactants, thickening, hard water and claim limits; amino acid cleansers in general are covered on the amino acid facial cleanser page. Butter-C offers turnkey OEM/ODM manufacturing, from formula development and testing to labeled finished goods and the notification dossier.
Formula base
Glycinate as the primary surfactant, with its partners
All surfactant levels are calculated as % active from the COA, not % raw material. Below are the five ingredient groups of a cleanser built around sodium cocoyl glycinate.
Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate: primary surfactant
"Cocoyl" is a mixture of coconut fatty acid chains, mainly lauric, myristic and palmitic (Chinelli et al., 2026), so SCG has no single molecular formula; CAS 90387-74-9. CIR describes acyl amino acids as usually waxy, water-soluble solids; the Chinelli study used commercial SCG as a 22% aqueous solution, and active content differs between suppliers. Survey data in the CIR report (USA, 2012–2013): 32 uses, rinse-off products 0.2–20%, mucous membrane contact 0.2–3%; these are reported levels, not recommendations, and the report does not say whether they are active or raw material.
Co-surfactants
Cocamidopropyl Betaine: in model solutions, sodium lauroyl glycinate (the C12 form) foamed slowly on its own, while a 2 : 1 blend with betaine cut the time to 100 mL of foam from 35 to 20 seconds at pH 8.5, with uniform bubbles of about 95 µm (Li et al., 2025; laboratory data); require a COA for amidoamine and DMAPA impurities. Decyl Glucoside can serve as a nonionic secondary surfactant; alkyl glucosides are recognized contact allergens and often cross-react.
Thickening
A carboxylate system does not thicken with salt the way a sulfate system does; viscosity is built with Acrylates Copolymer, Xanthan Gum or PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate. Acrylates Copolymer needs neutralizing, so the polymer's pH range and the pH range where glycinate stays dissolved must overlap; this is tested on the complete formula.
Humectants and chelation
Glycerin, Betaine (trimethylglycine, not Cocamidopropyl Betaine) and Panthenol shape the after-wash feel, assessed by sensory testing. SCG is sensitive to calcium and magnesium ions (ingredient article): Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate or Disodium EDTA helps keep foam and clarity in hard water.
Preservation, pH adjustment
Glycinate systems usually end up near neutral pH, where Sodium Benzoate/Potassium Sorbate work poorly, so Phenoxyethanol (maximum 1.0%, Annex VI Ref 29) with Ethylhexylglycerin is used, confirmed by challenge testing to ISO 11930. Citric Acid lowers pH step by step along the established curve; if pH needs raising, a small amount of Sodium Hydroxide (Annex III Ref 15a, use as pH adjuster: pH < 11).
Key technical points
pH is the first decision for a glycinate cleanser
These are the points where a glycinate cleanser differs from a sulfate cleanser and from other amino acid cleansers; each is settled with raw material documents or tests on samples.
Why "pH 5.5" does not automatically work for glycinate
As pH falls, part of the SCG carboxylate groups take up a proton and become the less soluble acid form. Titrating a 10% SCG solution with HCl from pH 10.2 down to 3 gave two apparent pKa steps at 6.9 and 4.5; at about pH 5 (adjusted with lactic acid) SCG formed a fibrous gel network on its own (Chinelli et al., 2026). The pKa of about 3.6 in the CIR report is a software estimate for single molecules (capryloyl glycine, palmitoyl glycine) and does not reflect a self-assembled system. At pH 5–5.5, depending on concentration and partners, the system may turn hazy, separate, precipitate or thicken, so pH is chosen according to the stability of each formula.
Glycinate does not share a pH range with sarcosinate or glutamate
Sodium lauroyl glycinate and sodium lauroyl sarcosinate differ only at the nitrogen of the amide group: glycinate keeps a hydrogen atom and so forms hydrogen bonds between molecules, packing more tightly at surfaces but also precipitating more readily as an acid – soap pair when acid is added (Bordes et al., 2010; a study of the lauroyl, C12 derivatives). Li et al. (2025) note that sodium lauroyl glycinate on its own precipitates at pH 7 (citing another study), while with a co-surfactant it did not precipitate across the pH range tested. Glutamic acid has two carboxyl groups, so glutamate comes as two salts with two INCI names, and behaves differently again. Do not copy the pH range of a sarcosinate or glutamate formula to glycinate.
A pH – clarity – viscosity curve for every formula
Built during development on the complete formula (including fragrance and preservative), measured at room temperature and in the cold; the target pH and the allowed pH range in the in-house specification come from it. Thickening at lower pH can be used to build viscosity without a polymer (Chinelli used it for a prototype shampoo that stayed stable through accelerated aging and freeze – thaw for months), but that is research: each facial cleanser formula has to demonstrate its own stability.
Actives that need a low pH are a hard problem
Exfoliating acids or actives that need an acidic pH push the system into the range where glycinate is protonated: clarity and stability must be tested thoroughly, or a different surfactant system chosen (ingredient article). The "amino acid cleanser at pH 5.5" story therefore does not apply to glycinate without a measurement.
Hard water, cationic polymers and look-alike names
A prototype SCG shampoo still foamed in 40 °f hard water (preliminary test; Chinelli, 2026), but cleanser foam is still tested at the water hardness of the target market. Potassium cocoyl glycinate forms a coacervate with a cationic polymer, and the coacervation region shifts with the surfactant head group (Aramaki et al., 2020; two co-authors from a company), so the polymer : surfactant ratio is tested for clarity. Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate (Annex VI Ref 51) is a formaldehyde-releasing preservative, maximum 0.5%, a completely different substance from SCG; do not confuse them when reading an ingredient list.
Three formulation directions
Three types of glycinate cleanser
Opaque cream cleanser, rich foam
Glycinate as the primary surfactant with Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycol Distearate for opacity and a polymer for viscosity; pH set where the system neither separates nor precipitates through accelerated aging and cold storage. For normal and dry skin; "no tight feeling" only with sensory testing.
Clear facial cleansing gel
Glycinate blended with betaine and a glucoside to keep the system clear; clarity in the cold is the main specification, because the clear pH window is usually narrower than in a sulfate system. For normal and combination skin.
Pre-foamed cleanser
A near water-thin solution for a foaming pump bottle, low total surfactant, no high-molecular-weight polymer; dilute solutions are prone to contamination, so preservative challenge testing is done on the actual formula in the actual pack (formulation experience).
Packaging is designed with the formula
Tubes need enough viscosity not to run when squeezed, pump bottles need less, and foaming pumps need a thin solution. Clear bottles reveal any haze, so choose them only after the system has passed low-temperature testing.
Parameters we monitor
What our R&D lab measures on every sample
These are the parameters Butter-C monitors during formula development and scale-up. Specific limits are agreed with you on the approved sample and then written into the product's in-house specification.
- Appearance & clarity
- Color, odor, clarity or even opacity; observed at room and low temperature against a reference sample kept in the R&D lab.
- pH – clarity – viscosity curve
- Built on the complete formula during development; the basis for choosing the target pH and allowed pH range.
- pH
- Measured neat or as a 10% solution at 25°C; pH drift tracked across stability time points, because clarity, viscosity and preservative efficacy all follow pH.
- Viscosity
- Rotational viscometer, spindle and speed recorded; tied to tube, pump or foaming pump.
- Foam height & stability
- Ross–Miles method or a fixed in-house procedure, including hard water; a "fine foam" claim rests on these measurements and sensory assessment.
- Stability
- Accelerated aging at 40°C, freeze–thaw cycling, cold storage; watching for precipitation, haze, separation, unexpected thickening and pH drift.
- Glycinate raw material COA
- Form (solution or solid), % active, pH and microbiology for each batch; weighed amounts adjusted to actual % active.
- Microbiology & challenge test
- Tested at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory; preservative efficacy (challenge) test to ISO 11930.
- Skin tolerance & eye irritation
- Tolerance testing on volunteers before claiming "gentle", "no tight feeling" or "suitable for sensitive skin"; a facial cleanser easily gets into the eyes, so eye irritation is assessed on the finished product before any eye-related wording.
Claims
Claims for a sodium cocoyl glycinate facial cleanser
A facial cleanser is a rinse-off product; glycinate is a surfactant, not a skin-conditioning ingredient. Evidence for SCG mildness is limited: CIR (2017) had no irritation or sensitization tests specific to SCG; human studies all used multi-ingredient products, one a glycinate-based body wash tested in people aged 5–65 with mild to moderate eczema (Regan et al., 2013; all authors employees of a consumer goods company) and one a glycinate cleanser with ceramides tested without a control group (Xia et al., 2025; 8 of 10 authors from a cosmetics group). Results for those products do not become claims for your product. Appendix 03-MP of Circular 06/2011/TT-BYT lists claims that go beyond cosmetic scope; Butter-C reviews label and marketing wording when preparing the notification dossier.
Cleanses dirt and excess sebum from facial skin
Instead of: skin detox, deep pore cleansing, claims to act on bacteria.
Amino acid-based (glycine) surfactant, sulfate-free (ingredient description)
"Sulfate-free" only when the formula contains no alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates. Instead of: supplies amino acids to the skin, natural extract, "toxic sulfates".
Creates a fine foam (once foam and sensory feel are measured on the finished product)
Instead of: skin-nourishing foam, "ultra-gentle" foam inferred from the ingredient name.
Product pH (state the figure when measured on the finished product)
Instead of: skin-balancing pH 5.5, physiological pH; glycinate cleansers are usually not at pH 5.5, and "close to skin pH" does not mean milder.
Gentle cleansing, no tight feeling (with finished-product test results)
Instead of: the gentlest, non-irritating, non-drying, gentle for every skin type, for sensitive skin without testing; figures on hydration, sebum or pores borrowed from studies of other products.
Warnings and directions
Avoid contact with eyes; if contact occurs, rinse immediately with plenty of water; stop use if redness, itching or burning occurs. No case report of contact allergy specific to SCG was found in PubMed (ingredient article, 10/2026), but that does not rule it out; people with damaged skin or a history of allergy to foaming agents should consult a dermatologist. Pregnancy and breastfeeding: not enough data, ask a doctor if in doubt. Instead of: safe for every skin, non-allergenic, suitable for children.
Manufacturing specifications
Available capabilities
- Formats
- Opaque cream cleanser, clear gel, solution for foaming pumps; sodium cocoyl glycinate as the primary surfactant.
- Pack types
- Tube, pump bottle, foaming pump bottle. Volume agreed when selecting packaging.
- Minimum order quantity
- Agreed per order, depending on format and pack type.
- Testing
- Tested at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory, with a certificate of analysis for every batch.
- Documentation
- Product Information File (PIF) and cosmetic product notification dossier prepared by Butter-C, with surfactant raw material COAs stating % active and the formula's pH curve.
- Packaging
- Label design, printing and packing run in parallel with formula development.
Suggested product concept
Fragrance-free glycinate – betaine cream cleanser
A concept to help you picture the product, not a ready-made product for sale. The actual formula is built around your brand positioning and price range.
Glycinate – betaine system
Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate as the primary surfactant, Cocamidopropyl Betaine as the secondary; total % active set on foam and tolerance test samples; "sulfate-free" can be stated.
Opacity from Glycol Distearate, viscosity from a polymer
Tube viscosity built with Acrylates Copolymer or Xanthan Gum within the agreed pH range; salt is not the main thickening tool.
Glycerin, Betaine, chelating agent
Humectants for the after-wash feel; Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate keeps foam in hard water. "No tight feeling" only with sensory testing.
100 ml tube, fragrance-free, pH stated from measurement
Fragrance-free removes one source of allergens; any pH figure in sales material comes from measurement of the finished product.
Customization options
What you can specify
The same product type can target very different customers. Tell us your requirements in the areas below and our pharmacists will build the formula accordingly.
Sodium or potassium salt
Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate is a different INCI (CIR survey: rinse-off 1–39%, reported levels); changing the salt changes the label name and the pH curve has to be rebuilt.
Secondary surfactant
Betaine, glucoside or glutamate: this sets foam character, clarity, pH window and the ingredient list; users who already know they are allergic to betaine or glucosides are taken into account.
Texture
Opaque cream, clear gel or pre-foamed; tied to the thickening system, pH window and pack.
Added actives
Actives that need a low pH are tested separately because glycinate may haze or precipitate at low pH; a rinse-off product has a short contact time, so actives are described only as ingredients.
Fragrance and color
Fragrance-free or lightly scented; fragrance changes clarity and viscosity, so the pH curve is rechecked.
Cleansing set
Paired with a syndet facial bar based on sodium cocoyl isethionate for users who prefer bars; each product has its own dossier and tests.
Further reading
Related knowledge
Sodium cocoyl glycinate (SCG) in cosmetics
Why glycinate is usually not at pH 5.5, current mildness data, the CIR conclusion and ASEAN regulation (in Vietnamese).
Sodium cocoyl glutamate in cosmetics
A related acyl amino acid with two carboxyl groups: different salts and pH behavior from glycinate (in Vietnamese).
Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate in cosmetics
Differs from glycinate by one methyl group on the amide nitrogen; CIR advises against sarcosinates in products where N-nitroso compounds could form (in Vietnamese).
Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) in cosmetics
The amphoteric often blended with glycinate: foam boosting, impurities and contact allergy (in Vietnamese).
Amino acid facial cleanser OEM/ODM manufacturing
Amino acid systems in general (glutamate, glycinate, sarcosinate); this page focuses on glycinate.
Facial cleanser OEM/ODM manufacturing
General principles of surfactant systems, conditioning phase and pH in facial cleansers.
How we work
From idea to finished batch
Eight steps and three milestones signed off by both sides: approved sample, notification number, finished batch. Step-by-step details →
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