BUTTER-C
Signature ingredients
Betaine essence OEM/ODM manufacturing
Betaine Essence · Signature Ingredients · OEM/ODM
Betaine (trimethylglycine) is a small molecule carrying both a positive and a negative charge, and it dissolves very readily in water; the CIR Expert Panel (USA) lists its cosmetic functions as hair conditioning, humectant and skin conditioning — not as a foaming agent. On an ingredient list, “Betaine” is often confused with Cocamidopropyl Betaine (a foaming surfactant) or Betaine Salicylate (a BHA): these are three different raw materials and their data are not shared. Betaine can be isolated from sugar beet molasses or synthesized; both routes give the same molecule, so “from sugar beet” is stated only when the supplier confirms the source. Data on betaine's moisture-holding mechanism come from cells and cultured skin tissue; we have not seen a human trial measuring skin hydration from betaine alone — the human data mainly concern reducing detergent irritation in short-term patch tests. CIR (2018) concluded betaine is safe in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be nonirritating; the 2013 survey lists maximum leave-on levels of 0.0001–8%. Butter-C's betaine essence is therefore a light, fragrance-free water-based essence in which betaine is the signature humectant alongside glycerin and other familiar humectants, with claims at the level of “holds moisture, leaves skin feeling soft” (tested on the finished product). Betaine is stocked at the plant's raw material warehouse. Butter-C offers full-service OEM/ODM manufacturing, from formula development and testing to labeled finished product with its notification dossier.
Formula base
A light water base with betaine as the signature humectant
Betaine is highly soluble in water, so the essence is built on a water base without oil. Betaine is the named ingredient; familiar humectants accompany it; a water-rich base requires a preservative system confirmed by a challenge test.
Betaine — a small-molecule humectant
INCI Betaine; also trimethylglycine, glycine betaine; CAS 107-43-7; C5H11NO2, 117.15 g/mol. According to CIR it is the zwitterionic N,N,N-trimethylammonium form of glycine, occurring as deliquescent flakes or prisms (strongly hygroscopic). Unlike long-chain alkyl betaines (coco-betaine, lauryl betaine), whose fatty “tail” makes them foam, betaine carries only methyl groups.
Companion humectants
Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Panthenol, Sodium PCA; low-level Sodium Hyaluronate if a layered moist feel is wanted. There is no direct comparison of betaine with these ingredients on human skin, so the whole base is the basis for a moisturizing claim when measured on the finished product.
Viscosity framework
A watery essence needs almost no thickener; a lightly viscous version uses Xanthan Gum or Hydroxyethylcellulose — these tolerate electrolytes such as Sodium PCA better than Carbomer. Betaine's effect on viscosity has no checked source — tested on small batches.
Preservation and stability
Phenoxyethanol at a maximum of 1.0% (ASEAN Annex VI Ref 29) with Ethylhexylglycerin; Disodium EDTA; a Citric Acid – Sodium Citrate buffer. A preservative efficacy (challenge) test to ISO 11930 is mandatory.
Key technical points
Four issues specific to an essence named after betaine
The general hydrating base is covered on the general page; the four items below concern the betaine raw material itself.
Betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, betaine salicylate
Three different INCI names. Betaine: humectant, skin conditioning. Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB): a mixture of amphoteric surfactants from coconut fatty acids, used for foam; CIR assessed it separately with the condition that it be formulated to be non-sensitizing — CAPB allergy data do not carry over to betaine. Betaine Salicylate: a 1:1 compound of betaine and salicylic acid, a mild exfoliant; this website converts it to salicylic acid when checking Annex III Ref 98. This page uses Betaine only.
Mechanism at cell level; human data concern irritation
Betaine is an organic osmolyte: cultured human keratinocytes raised betaine transporter mRNA 3–5-fold within 6–24 hours when the medium went from 305 to 405 mosmol/L (Warskulat et al., 2004); in cultured human skin tissue, betaine raised expression of claudin-1, claudin-4 and occludin (El-Chami et al., 2021). In healthy people, 24-hour patch tests: adding betaine reduced the irritant reaction to SLS and CAPB (Nicander et al., 2003; 21 people, no concentration in the abstract); in a second study the same year by the same group (28 people), soaps containing betaine were the least irritating but irritation did not fall further as betaine concentration rose, and the differences between products were not large. The 40-person data (betaine 3.5% with SLS 2%) cited by CIR come from a REACH dossier, not a peer-reviewed paper. There is no trial measuring skin hydration from betaine alone.
Concentration: market levels per CIR
The 2013 survey cited by CIR (Burnett et al., 2018) lists maximum reported concentrations: leave-on 0.0001–8%, rinse-off 0.09–8.7%, eye area 0.1–3%. These are market levels, not recommendations or levels with evidence of benefit; the level in the essence is chosen within the leave-on range and fixed by sensory testing (stickiness) on samples. “Betaine reduces the stickiness of glycerin” is sensory experience, with no published study found.
Safety, origin and regulation
CIR 2018 concluded that 11 alkyl betaines, including betaine, are safe in the present practices of use and concentration “when formulated to be nonirritating”. Betaine-specific data: repeat-insult patch testing of an 8.7% lotion (102 people) was non-sensitizing, a 5% leave-on product (51 people) caused no irritation or allergy; 10% betaine was not irritating to rabbit eyes. Food-grade betaine is separated from sugar beet molasses by chromatography; feed-grade betaine is synthesized from chloroacetic acid and trimethylamine (CIR). Betaine (other names, CAS 107-43-7) is not in ASEAN Annexes II, III or VI, version 2026-1, or Annex VII, version 2025-2.
Three formulation directions
Three forms of betaine essence
Watery betaine – glycerin essence
Betaine, glycerin, butylene glycol; as fluid as water, patted on by hand after cleansing, morning and evening. A short ingredient list, for normal and combination skin.
Lightly viscous betaine – panthenol – hyaluronate essence
Adds Panthenol, low-level Sodium Hyaluronate and Xanthan Gum for a plumper feel; betaine remains the named ingredient — unlike the HA hydrating serum, where hyaluronic acid is the named ingredient.
Low-glycerin betaine essence for those who dislike stickiness
Betaine replaces most of the glycerin, with Sodium PCA added and Hydroxyethylcellulose as thickener; for oily skin and hot, humid climates. A “less sticky” feel must be confirmed by sensory evaluation on samples and is not stated before testing.
Packaging is designed with the formula
A pump bottle or small-neck screw-cap bottle limits contamination during use; a dropper bottle needs a stricter challenge test. This page does not cover mist sprays.
Parameters we monitor
What our R&D lab measures on every sample
Below are the parameters Butter-C monitors during formula development and scale-up to production. Specific limits are agreed with you on the approved sample, then written into the product's in-house specification.
- Incoming betaine raw material
- COA of each lot checked: INCI, form (anhydrous or hydrate), assay, heavy metals; source (sugar beet or synthetic) confirmed if the label states an origin. Stored tightly closed because the material is deliquescent.
- Appearance & clarity
- Color, odor, clarity; tracking haze over time.
- pH
- Measured at 25 °C; the pH range is fixed by stability testing because the sources checked give no stable pH range for betaine in a formula.
- Viscosity
- Measured with a rotational viscometer at 25 °C for the lightly viscous version; spindle and speed recorded.
- Stability
- Accelerated aging at 40 °C, cold storage and freeze–thaw cycling in the final packaging; tracking clarity, viscosity and pH.
- Microbiology & challenge test
- Tested at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory; preservative efficacy (challenge) test to ISO 11930.
- Irritation & sensitization
- Patch testing on volunteers before the formula is locked — CIR's “nonirritating” condition applies to the whole formula; required if the label says “suitable for sensitive skin”.
- Skin hydration
- Measured instrumentally on volunteers with a vehicle control — when you want to state a hydration figure.
- Stickiness
- Sensory evaluation on samples using an in-house scale — the sources searched contain no sensory test specific to betaine.
Claims
Claims at the moisturizing level
CIR lists betaine's functions as humectant, skin conditioning and hair conditioning; a declared function is not evidence of benefit. Mechanistic data come from cultured cells and tissue; human data concern reduced detergent irritation in short-term patch tests on skin and on the oral mucosa. Butter-C reviews label and marketing wording against Annex 03-MP of Circular 06/2011/TT-BYT when preparing the notification dossier.
Holds moisture, leaves skin feeling soft
Requires testing on the finished product; figures are stated only after measurement. Instead of: “more moisturizing than glycerin or HA”, “hydrates your cells”.
Contains betaine — a humectant
An ingredient claim; “plant-derived, from sugar beet” is stated only when the supplier confirms it in writing. Instead of: “completely natural”, “natural, so gentler”.
Light, non-sticky feel
Stated only after sensory evaluation on samples. Instead of: “non-sticky” without testing.
No borrowing of cell, irritation or dry-mouth data
Tight-junction data come from cultured tissue; irritation data from patch tests of detergent systems; dry-mouth data from toothpaste. Instead of: restoring the skin barrier, “neutralizes irritation”, “relieves dry mouth”.
For sensitive skin
Stated only after testing on people with sensitive skin. Instead of: non-irritating, safe for all skin types.
Label advice, pregnancy
People with sensitive skin should test on a small area first and avoid the eyes; reactions also depend on the whole formula. Pregnancy and breastfeeding: insufficient data, so asking a doctor is advised. Instead of: “safe for pregnancy”.
Manufacturing specifications
Our capabilities
- Texture
- Watery or lightly viscous; clear to slightly hazy depending on the thickener.
- Pack formats
- Pump bottle, screw-cap bottle or dropper bottle. Volume agreed when selecting packaging.
- Betaine sourcing
- Stocked at the plant's raw material warehouse (Betaine, single ingredient); origin per the supplier's statement, COA for every lot.
- Minimum order quantity
- Agreed per order, depending on formula direction and pack format.
- Testing
- Performed at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory; certificate of analysis delivered with every lot.
- Documentation
- Product Information File (PIF) and cosmetic product notification dossier prepared by Butter-C, with a betaine COA stating the INCI name.
- Packaging
- Label design, printing and packing run in parallel with formula development.
Suggested product concept
Fragrance-free betaine essence for dehydrated skin
A product concept to help you picture the result, not a ready-made product for sale. The actual formula is developed around your brand's positioning and price range.
Betaine
The named ingredient, at a level within the range CIR records for leave-on products, fixed by sensory testing.
Glycerin, Panthenol
Hold water in the stratum corneum and give a comfortable feel — together with betaine, the basis for a moisturizing claim when measured on the finished product.
Low-level Sodium Hyaluronate
Additional humectant; kept low so the essence is not sticky.
100 ml pump bottle, fragrance-free
Limits contamination during use; the label carries the small-area test advice and suggests a moisturizer after the essence.
Customization options
What you can specify
The same product type can serve very different customer groups. Tell us your requirements in the areas below and our pharmacists will develop the matching formula.
Texture
Watery or lightly viscous — decides the thickener and the feel when patting it on.
Companion ingredients
Glycerin, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Trehalose; choose a few, without overloading the formula.
Ingredient story
“A humectant from sugar beet” only when the supplier confirms the source in writing; otherwise tell it as “a small-molecule humectant”.
Scent and color
Fragrance-free and colorless recommended.
Ingredient positioning
Alcohol-free, fragrance-free, vegan — “vegan” considers the betaine source and the whole formula.
Packaging
Pump, screw cap or dropper — decides how strict the challenge test must be.
Further reading
Related knowledge
Betaine (trimethylglycine) in cosmetics
Distinguishing it from CAPB and betaine salicylate; mechanism, irritation data, CIR concentrations and safety (in Vietnamese).
HA hydrating serum manufacturing
The general hydrating serum page, where hyaluronic acid in several molecular sizes is the named ingredient.
Trehalose essence manufacturing
Another humectant named in a water base — the data are not shared.
Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) in cosmetics
A foaming agent sharing the word “betaine” but a different raw material, with its own safety data (in Vietnamese).
Dry skin and dehydrated skin
Telling oil-poor skin from water-poor skin; why humectants need an occlusive layer (in Vietnamese).
How we work
From idea to finished batch
Eight steps and three milestones signed off by both sides: approved sample, notification number, finished batch. Step-by-step details (in Vietnamese) →
Get started
Tell us about the product you plan to launch
Send us your product direction and expected volume. Our team will get back to you during business hours (Vietnam time, GMT+7).
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