BUTTER-C
Signature ingredients
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 cream OEM/ODM manufacturing
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 Cream · Signature Ingredients · OEM/ODM
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 — usually called pal-GHK — is the tripeptide glycyl-histidyl-lysine (GHK) with a 16-carbon palmitoyl fatty-acid chain attached. GHK is a familiar sequence in cell research; adding the palmitoyl group makes the molecule more lipophilic and is described as improving penetration compared with GHK. In the market, pal-GHK is often presented as a “signal peptide” for firm, smooth skin, accompanied by collagen figures. When we checked the sources, we found no human trial of palmitoyl tripeptide-1 alone versus a base cream: the collagen data come from cells and skin tissue outside the body, and the human studies all used multi-active products whose abstracts do not describe a control group or do not state the sample size. A 2025 review called this a “surprising absence” of clinical studies. So the palmitoyl tripeptide-1 cream Butter-C builds tells the ingredient story honestly and focuses on what the factory controls: the raw material is usually a dilute solution, so every calculation uses the actual peptide content on the COA; the level stays within what the CIR Expert Panel recorded for leave-on products; the base is a moisturizing emulsion; and the claim stops at “moisturizes, helps skin look smooth and supple” after testing on the finished product. The raw material is not in Butter-C's standing inventory, so it is sourced per order. Butter-C offers turnkey OEM/ODM, from formula development and testing to labeled finished product and notification dossier.
Formula base
Peptide dosed by actual content, a moisturizing cream base
For a peptide used at parts-per-million levels, the raw-material documents decide whether the formula is right — the four points below are settled before choosing a texture.
What Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is
INCI Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, synonyms Pal-GHK, Pal-Gly-His-Lys-OH; CAS 147732-56-7; formula C30H54N6O5, molecular weight 578.8 g/mol; XLogP about 3.2 (PubChem — a computed value), i.e. leaning lipophilic, unlike water-loving GHK. Not to be confused with copper peptide (Copper Tripeptide-1): same GHK origin but a complex with a copper ion; the data for the two are not interchangeable.
The old name “palmitoyl oligopeptide”
According to the CIR report, the INCI name “Palmitoyl Oligopeptide” was retired in 2013; the PubChem synonym list still attaches this name to a different sequence as well. Supplier documents must state the current INCI and the sequence; the raw material's trade name is not used in place of the INCI on the label.
Solution percentage is not peptide percentage
PubChem lists powder, liquid and acetate-salt forms. If the raw material is a ready-made solution, the figure in the formula is the percentage of solution: for example, a solution containing 100 ppm peptide used at 3% gives about 3 ppm peptide in the finished product — the real figure is read from the COA. The COA must state the sequence, peptide content and assay method; the label lists the full INCI of the solvent and preservative carried in, and that preservative counts toward the formula total when checking Annex VI.
A moisturizing emulsion base
An oil-in-water emulsion with Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, the emulsifier Cetearyl Olivate and Cetearyl Alcohol; Glycerin, Panthenol and Sodium Hyaluronate as humectants; no fragrance. The humectants and emollients are the main basis for the moisturizing and smooth-look claims.
Key technical points
Concentration, skin penetration, stability and safety
Concentration per the CIR survey
The CIR Expert Panel report (Johnson et al., 2018) records palmitoyl tripeptide-1 used at maximum concentrations of 0.0000001–0.001% in leave-on products and 0.0001–0.0004% in eye-area products; the Panel considered concentrations below 10 ppm typical for the peptides in the report. Butter-C keeps the actual peptide within this range per the supplier TDS; a higher level needs additional safety data in the PIF. The human studies reviewed do not state concentrations.
Reaches the stratum corneum — the dermis is unclear
In three female volunteers who applied a serum containing pal-GHK and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 for 0.5, 2 and 5 hours, secondary ion mass spectrometry detected both peptides in every layer of the stratum corneum, with intensity falling with depth, along the route between cells, and no significant change with exposure time; two co-authors are employees of a cosmetics company (Trzaska et al., 2026). The study measured only the stratum corneum and does not show how much peptide reaches the dermis, where fibroblasts live.
Self-assembly and instability: tracked by stability testing
C16-GHK is an amphiphilic peptide that self-assembles into crystal-like aggregates in solution (Castelletto et al., 2013); GHK and its derivatives are inherently unstable, which makes formulation difficult (Mortazavi et al., 2025). The checked sources give no figures for a stable pH range or maximum temperature — the phase, temperature and pH of addition follow the supplier TDS. Peptides are vulnerable to protein-digesting enzymes, so the cream is not combined with enzyme exfoliants (a cautious inference). Assay: an LC-MS/MS method exists for palmitoyl peptides in creams, using pal-GHK as the internal standard (Chirita et al., 2009) — the method for the finished product itself is validated by the testing laboratory.
Safety and ASEAN regulation
The CIR Expert Panel (2018) concluded that palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described; the conclusion applies only to the sequences in the report. A repeated patch test on 52 people with a raw-material blend containing 1,000 ppm showed no clinically significant irritation or sensitization — which is not the same as “non-irritating”. No SCCS opinion was found; the CIR report has no reproductive toxicity data. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (CAS 147732-56-7) is not named in Annexes II, III, VI (06/2026 version) or Annex VII (12/2025 version) of the ASEAN Cosmetic Directive.
Three formulation directions
Three creams with palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Light moisturizing peptide cream
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in a thin oil-in-water emulsion with Glycerin, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate and Squalane. For normal to slightly dry skin, morning and evening; a short ingredient list and a clear single-peptide story.
Pal-GHK – palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 pair cream
A pairing common in studies and sold as a pre-blended raw material; the label lists the INCI of both peptides and of the solvent, with no trade names. CIR records palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 at up to 0.0015% in leave-on products. The blend's results cannot be split between the peptides, and the data for one are not extrapolated to the other.
Night cream for dry skin
A richer emulsion with Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceramide NP, Squalane and humectants; Tocopherol protects the oil phase. For dry skin, evening use; the texture is spread-tested to avoid a heavy feel.
How it differs from existing peptide pages
The peptide serum uses acetyl hexapeptide-8 (a different peptide group) in a water-based serum; the copper peptide serum is named for the GHK-Cu copper complex; the peptide eye cream uses acetyl tetrapeptide-5 for the eye area. This page is for a face cream named for pal-GHK: dosing actual peptide at parts per million, self-assembly, and the gap between cell data and cosmetic claims.
Parameters we monitor
What our R&D team measures on every sample
Below are the parameters Butter-C monitors during formula development and scale-up. Specific limits are agreed with you on the approved sample and then written into the product's in-house specification.
- Incoming raw-material documents
- Full INCI of the raw-material solution (solvent, preservative), sequence, CAS 147732-56-7, peptide content and assay method per the supplier's COA.
- Sensory, color & odor
- Color, odor, smoothness and surface gloss of the cream at each stability time point against the reference sample.
- pH
- Measured at 25 °C; set within the pH range on the peptide TDS and monitored for drift.
- Viscosity & emulsion stability
- Rotational viscometer; centrifugation, freeze–thaw cycles, storage at 40 °C; watch for separation, oil bleeding and specks from peptide aggregation.
- Peptide content
- Assayed in the finished product at the start and after stability testing when the laboratory has a method (LC-MS/MS); mandatory when the label or marketing states a content.
- Microbiology & preservative challenge
- Tested at a GLP/ISO 17025 laboratory; preservative efficacy test per ISO 11930 on the final formula.
- Tolerance & human measurements
- Irritation testing on volunteers using the finished product itself; to state “moisturizes, skin looks smooth”, skin hydration and appearance are measured in the same study.
- Packaging compatibility
- Filled into the actual jar, tube or airless jar; seal, weight loss and discoloration at contact surfaces checked.
Claims
Claims matched to the evidence for pal-GHK
The data on palmitoyl tripeptide-1 come in two very different layers. Cells: in human fibroblasts after UV exposure, pal-GHK significantly increased type III collagen without detectable cytotoxicity; a combination of four peptides had a greater effect than each alone, and in skin tissue outside the body the combination increased collagen I, III and IV — the authors are from industry (Zang et al., 2026). Humans, all with multi-active products: Yang et al. (2024) — an eye cream with yeast/rice ferment filtrate, N-acetylneuraminic acid, pal-GHK and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, 12 weeks, hydration +28.12%, elasticity +18.81%, collagen measured by ultrasound +54.99%; PubMed classifies it as a randomized trial but the abstract states no sample size and describes no control group, and some authors are from industry. Wang et al. (2026) — 30 women using baicalin by day and pal-GHK at night; the abstract describes no control group and no duration for the human study. Mondon et al. (2015) — a blend of “palmitoyl oligopeptide” and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, compared with placebo but with no sample size or concentration in the abstract; most authors are from industry. Two reviews by university groups note the lack of clinical studies (Mortazavi et al., 2025) and that data on these peptides are mostly in patents and supplier brochures (Resende et al., 2021). Butter-C does not use these figures as label claims. Appendix 03-MP of Circular 06/2011/TT-BYT does not accept claims of preventing, reducing or reversing age-related changes for skincare products.
Moisturizes (to be tested on the finished product)
Basis: the formula's humectants and hydration measured on volunteers using the finished product itself. Instead of: “supplies collagen”, “boosts collagen by x%”.
Helps skin look smooth and supple (to be tested on the finished product)
An appearance claim, assessed on the finished product, with the study design described when results are quoted. Instead of: age-defying claims, erases wrinkles, rejuvenates, lifts, replaces fillers or botulinum toxin.
Contains the peptide Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
An ingredient statement with the correct INCI in order of content, plus the full INCI of the raw-material solution; a percentage only when it is actual peptide with an assay. Instead of: “copper peptide”, the old name “palmitoyl oligopeptide”, the trade name of a raw-material blend.
Numbers on the label
Only figures from testing of the finished product itself. Instead of: copying percentages from supplier brochures or from a multi-active eye cream in another study.
Directions
Apply to clean facial skin morning and evening; use sunscreen during the day. There are no direct interaction data with retinoids, vitamin C or exfoliating acids — reactive skin can alternate morning and evening to make tolerance easier to follow. Instead of: “results like an aesthetic procedure”, use on skin straight after laser or microneedling.
Label cautions
Patch-test on a small area first; stop if redness or itching occurs and see a dermatologist if allergy is suspected. Pregnant or breastfeeding: data are insufficient, ask a doctor. Keep out of reach of children. Instead of: non-irritating, safe for pregnancy, gentle for every skin.
Manufacturing specifications
Current capabilities
- Texture
- Light emulsion cream, gel-cream or a richer cream for dry skin.
- Pack format
- Jar, airless jar, tube. Volume agreed when packaging is selected.
- Minimum order quantity
- Agreed per order — depends on the formula direction, pack format and raw-material import lot.
- Testing
- Performed at a GLP/ISO 17025 laboratory, with results delivered with every batch; peptide assay as planned when the label states a content.
- Dossier
- Product information file (PIF) and notification dossier prepared by Butter-C, with the COA stating sequence, peptide content, the INCI of the raw-material solution and the actual-peptide calculation.
- Packaging
- Label design, printing and packing run in parallel with formula development.
Suggested product concept
Fragrance-free palmitoyl tripeptide-1 moisturizing cream
One product direction to help you picture the result — not a ready-made product for sale. The actual formula is built around your brand's positioning and price range.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 as the named ingredient
Solution level per TDS, converted to actual peptide per the COA to stay within the CIR-recorded range; sourced per order.
Humectants and emulsion base
Glycerin, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate; Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Olivate; no fragrance, no essential oils.
Testing before sign-off
Stability study watching for aggregation, ISO 11930 preservative challenge, tolerance testing and hydration measurement on the finished product.
50 ml airless jar
Limits air and finger contact with the product; the label lists the full INCI, patch-test on a small area, use sunscreen by day; the claim stops at “moisturizes, helps skin look smooth and supple” after testing on the finished product.
Customization options
What you can specify
The same product type can serve very different customers. Tell us your requirements in the areas below and our pharmacists will build the matching formula.
One peptide or a pair
Pal-GHK alone, or with palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 — each peptide calculated separately per its COA and the CIR level, with no stacking of benefits.
Raw-material documents
A supplier with a COA stating sequence, peptide content and assay method; the solution declares its full INCI.
Texture
Light cream for normal skin, gel-cream for combination skin or a richer cream for dry skin.
Companion ingredients
Ceramide NP, shea butter and Tocopherol for the dry-skin version; each has its own data and concentration.
Companion products
Peptide serum, peptide eye cream and a daytime sunscreen in the same line, to sell as a set.
Ingredient direction
Fragrance-free, alcohol-free, paraben-free, vegan — please tell us at the start so suitable raw materials can be chosen.
Further reading
Related topics
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 in cosmetics
Structure, mechanism, penetration, the limited evidence and CIR use levels (in Vietnamese).
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 in cosmetics
The peptide often paired with pal-GHK — why the data for the two are not interchangeable (in Vietnamese).
Copper peptide (GHK-Cu) in cosmetics
The copper-complex derivative of the same GHK sequence (in Vietnamese).
Peptide serum manufacturing
A different direction: an acetyl hexapeptide-8 serum dosed as actual peptide.
Copper peptide serum manufacturing
A different direction: a serum named for GHK-Cu, with the pH and incompatibilities of the copper complex.
Moisturizing cream manufacturing
The general moisturizer base: humectants, emollients, occlusives.
How we work
From idea to finished batch
Eight steps and three milestones signed off by both sides: approved sample, notification number, finished batch. Step-by-step details →
Get started
Tell us about the product you plan to launch
Send us your product direction and expected volume. Our team will get back to you during business hours (Vietnam time, GMT+7).
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