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Hesperidin methyl chalcone eye cream OEM/ODM manufacturing
Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone Eye Cream · OEM/ODM
Hesperidin methyl chalcone (HMC) is a semi-synthetic derivative of hesperidin — a flavonoid abundant in citrus peel — methylated so that it dissolves better in water. HMC is known mainly from medicine: it is one component of an oral combination drug with Ruscus aculeatus extract and vitamin C for chronic venous disease, prescribed by a doctor. In cosmetics, CosIng lists HMC's function as antioxidant, and the ingredient is often marketed for dark circles and puffy eyes. In reality, the skin data come mainly from cell-free tests, mice and skin explants kept outside the body; in humans we found only one small study with a multi-ingredient cream that did not measure dark circles or puffiness. That is why the HMC eye cream Butter-C develops tells the ingredient story honestly and focuses on what the factory can control: a pre-blended raw material must declare its full INCI and HMC content on the COA, the base is light and fragrance-free, color and emulsion stability are monitored, and eye irritation and eye-area tolerance testing on the finished product are mandatory — because a case of contact allergy to HMC in a cosmetic has been reported. Claims stop at moisturizing the skin around the eyes and a fresher look, measured on the finished product. The ingredient is not in Butter-C's standing raw-material list, so it is sourced per order with a mandatory COA. Butter-C offers turnkey OEM/ODM manufacturing, from formula development and testing to labeled finished goods and the notification dossier.
Formula base
HMC, pre-blended raw materials and a light eye-cream base
For a semi-synthetic active that is often sold pre-blended, the raw-material file matters as much as the name — these four points are settled before formulation starts.
What Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone is
INCI Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, CAS 24292-52-2; formula C29H36O15, molecular weight 624.6 g/mol (PubChem). Hesperidin is extracted from natural sources and then methylated under alkaline conditions (Jesus 2025). CosIng lists the function “antioxidant”. HMC dissolves in water better than hesperidin (Bellavite 2025), so it usually goes into the water phase of gels and creams.
Three different INCIs, data not interchangeable
Hesperidin (CAS 520-26-3, CosIng: skin conditioning – emollient), Methyl Hesperidin (CAS 11013-97-1, skin conditioning) and Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone (CAS 24292-52-2, antioxidant) are three separate ingredients. The COA must state the correct INCI and CAS; data for one are not applied to another.
Sourced per order, often a pre-blended material
HMC is not in Butter-C's standing raw-material list. Commercial materials may be pre-blends — the eye cream in the Hahn 2016 study used 1% of a material combining HMC and a peptide, without stating the HMC ratio. The supplier must give the INCI of every component, the HMC content, a COA for each lot and a TDS (pH range, addition temperature, color); the label lists the full INCI, never a trade name in place of INCI.
Light, fragrance-free eye-cream base
A thin oil-in-water emulsion with Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Cetearyl Olivate, or a Hydroxyethylcellulose gel; Glycerin, Panthenol and Sodium Hyaluronate for moisture; no fragrance, no essential oils, pH set close to neutral as on the general eye cream page. Caffeine or Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 can be added — no verified study shows any combination working synergistically with HMC on human skin.
Key technical points
Concentration, stability, emulsion and the eye area
Concentration: no established level
The US CIR Expert Panel has not reviewed HMC (not in the CIR report list, checked 24/10/2026), so there is no survey of use concentrations. The figures available are only test levels from studies: 1% in a cream applied to mice (per the Bellavite 2025 review), 0.02% in skin-explant culture medium, and 1% of a pre-blended material in a human eye cream (HMC content not stated). The “typically 0.05–2%” figure circulating online traces back to an information website, not a study — it is not used as a basis. Butter-C follows the supplier's TDS.
pH, temperature and color per the TDS
A 2025 review states HMC is stable at pH 2–7.4 and below 50 °C, but its source is an information website — unverified. PubChem has no experimental data on pKa, melting point or color. So the pH range and addition temperature follow the TDS and the finished-product stability study; color and color drift over time are monitored; packaging is closed and limits light (general practice for polyphenol actives, no HMC-specific data).
Surface activity and emulsion stability
HMC accumulates at the oil/water interface and lowers surface tension (Wang 2025 — a food study with MCT oil). In an eye cream this may slightly affect the emulsifier system, so Butter-C rechecks emulsion stability whenever the HMC level or pre-blended material changes.
Eye irritation and eye-area tolerance testing are mandatory
A 2015 case report in Contact Dermatitis describes HMC as a new cosmetic contact allergen (Andersen 2015 — no abstract; we have not been able to read the full text, so no details are given). HMC has no CIR review, and CosIng lists no SCCS opinion. For a product used close to the eyes, Butter-C regards eye irritation testing (alternative methods) and eye-area tolerance testing on the finished product as conditions for finalizing the formula.
ASEAN regulation
Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone (CAS 24292-52-2, EC 246-128-2) is not listed in Annexes II, III, VI (release 2026-1, 22/06/2026) or Annex VII (release 2025-2) of the ASEAN Cosmetic Directive; CosIng lists no restriction either. No specific limit does not mean unlimited use: the safety of the finished product must be demonstrated in the Product Information File (PIF).
Three formulation directions
Three eye-area products with HMC
Moisturizing gel-cream
HMC in a thin oil-in-water emulsion with Glycerin, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate and Squalane. For dry skin around the eyes; the cream must stay where applied and not migrate into the eyes as the skin warms.
Cooling eye gel with caffeine
A water-rich gel (Hydroxyethylcellulose) with HMC, Caffeine and Glycerin; cool feel, fast absorption, suits a metal applicator. Caffeine must be fully dissolved so it does not recrystallize on cooling.
Eye cream with peptide
Add Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 along the lines of the “tired-looking eye area” group on the general eye cream page, or use a pre-blended HMC + peptide material (full INCI declared). Each ingredient has its own limited data; claims rest on measurements of the finished product itself, without adding up benefits.
How this differs from the general and horse chestnut eye cream pages
The general eye cream page chooses actives by the cause of dark circles and combines several groups. The horse chestnut eye cream page centers on a plant extract, the seed as plant part and escin. This page is for HMC — a semi-synthetic active often supplied pre-blended — with its INCI file, content, eye-area tolerance testing and the line between an oral venous drug and a topical cream.
Parameters we monitor
What our R&D team measures on every sample
Below are the parameters Butter-C monitors during formula development and scale-up to production. Specific limits are agreed with you on the approved sample and then written into the product's in-house specification.
- Incoming raw-material file
- Full INCI of the material (including pre-blended components), CAS 24292-52-2, HMC content, microbiology and heavy metals per the supplier COA.
- Appearance, color & odor
- Base color of the material, color drift and odor at each stability checkpoint, with and without light, against the reference sample.
- pH
- Measured at 25 °C; set close to neutral for an eye-area product and within the pH range on the TDS; pH drift monitored.
- Viscosity & emulsion stability
- Rotational viscometer, checked at skin temperature to judge spreading; centrifugation, freeze–thaw cycling, storage at 40 °C; separation monitored when the HMC level changes.
- HMC content
- Assayed in the finished product at the start and after stability testing when the supplier has an analytical method, or when the label or marketing states a content.
- Eye irritation testing
- Alternative methods on the final finished product at a testing facility; mandatory for this product line.
- Eye-area tolerance
- Tested on volunteers using the finished product itself; to state “moisturizes, fresher-looking eye area”, assess these in the same study.
- Microbiology & preservative challenge
- Tested at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory; preservative efficacy (challenge) test per ISO 11930 on the final formula.
- Packaging compatibility
- Filled into the actual tube and applicator; seal integrity, squeeze force, residual cream and color of cream near the tube wall checked.
Claims
Claims matched to the evidence for HMC
Most positive data on HMC do not come from eye creams. Medicine: a multicenter observational study in 917 patients with chronic venous disease taking an oral combination of Ruscus aculeatus, HMC and ascorbic acid reported improved symptoms, ankle circumference and quality of life after 12 weeks (Guex 2009) — a prescription drug, measured in the legs, acting systemically. Preclinical: a topical formulation containing HMC reduced skin edema and oxidative stress in UVB-irradiated hairless mice (Martinez 2016); HMC 0.02% reduced vessel dilation and IL-8 levels in human skin explants stimulated with substance P in culture (Hernandez-Pigeon 2018 — all authors were staff of a dermocosmetic company's research center). In humans: one study of 20 people using an eye cream (1% of a pre-blended HMC + peptide material plus about ten other ingredients) together with a face cream, twice daily for 4 weeks, compared with before use — the full text describes no control group or blinding; crow's-feet wrinkles decreased 14.07% and no abnormal skin reactions occurred; dark circles and puffiness were not measured; some authors were from companies (Hahn 2016). Butter-C does not base claims on these data. We have not found any trial measuring dark circles or puffiness with HMC (PubMed search 10/2026). Appendix 03-MP of Circular 06/2011/TT-BYT lists “reducing/controlling swelling and edema” and “preventing, reducing or reversing physiological changes and degeneration due to aging” among claims not accepted for skin care products.
Moisturizes the skin around the eyes (to be tested on the finished product)
Basis: the formula's humectants and an assessment on volunteers using the finished product itself. Instead of: reduces edema, eliminates eye bags, removes fat pads.
Helps the eye area look fresher (to be tested on the finished product)
An appearance claim, measured on the finished product. Instead of: fades or erases dark circles, strengthens capillaries, improves venous circulation, “vitamin P”, reduces inflammation, citing oral-drug or mouse data as the cream's effect.
Contains an antioxidant ingredient (Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone)
Matches the ingredient's CosIng function; the label lists INCI Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone in order of content, with the full INCI of any pre-blended material. Instead of: a venous-drug ingredient, rejuvenates the eye area.
Directions for use
Pat a small amount around the orbital bone, avoiding contact with the eyes; if the product gets into the eyes, rinse immediately with clean water. Do not apply to broken skin. Use sunscreen during the day. Instead of: suitable on the eyelid, right up to the lash line, or on damaged skin.
Label notes
A case of contact allergy to HMC in a cosmetic has been reported (Andersen 2015). Test first on a small skin area, especially anyone who has had dermatitis around the eyes; stop if redness or itching occurs and see a dermatologist if allergy is suspected. Pregnant or breastfeeding women should ask a doctor (insufficient data; oral-drug data do not carry over to cosmetics). Keep out of reach of children. Instead of: non-allergenic, safe for pregnancy, gentle for every skin type.
Manufacturing specifications
Current capabilities
- Texture
- Light emulsion gel-cream or eye gel; color depends on the HMC material used.
- Pack formats
- Nozzle tubes, metal-tip tubes, small pump bottles. Volume agreed when packaging is selected.
- Minimum order quantity
- Agreed per order — depends on formula direction, pack format and the raw-material import lot.
- Testing
- Performed at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory, with a certificate of analysis for every batch; eye irritation and eye-area tolerance testing as planned.
- Dossier
- Product Information File (PIF) and cosmetic product notification prepared by Butter-C, with a COA stating full INCI, HMC content and the eye irritation test report.
- Packaging
- Label design, printing and packing run in parallel with formulation; the label carries directions to avoid contact with the eyes.
Suggested product concept
Fragrance-free HMC and caffeine eye gel-cream
A product concept to help you picture the possibilities, not a ready-made product for sale. The actual formula is developed to match your brand positioning and price range.
Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone as the named ingredient
Level per the supplier's TDS; sourced per order, COA stating full INCI and HMC content.
Caffeine and humectants
Caffeine fully dissolved in the water phase; Glycerin, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate; a little Squalane for the gel-cream version; no fragrance, no essential oils.
Testing before sign-off
Eye irritation testing on the finished product, eye-area tolerance testing, ISO 11930 challenge test, color tracked through stability testing.
15 ml nozzle tube
Label with full INCI, directions to avoid the eyes and to test on a small skin area first; claims limited to “moisturizes the skin around the eyes, helps the eye area look fresher” after testing on the finished product.
Customization options
What you can specify
The same product type can serve very different customer groups depending on the brand. Tell us your requirements in the areas below and our team of pharmacists will develop a matching formula.
Texture
Light emulsion gel-cream or cooling eye gel.
Raw-material form
Single-ingredient HMC or a pre-blended material with peptide — a pre-blend must declare full INCI, with the HMC ratio on the COA.
Supporting actives
Caffeine, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 — each has its own data and concentration; claims measured on the finished product.
Applicator
Nozzle, cooling metal tip or ceramic tip.
Additional testing
Beyond the mandatory eye irritation and eye-area tolerance tests, assessment on contact lens wearers or skin hydration measurement can be added — mention early so it can be planned.
Ingredient preferences
Fragrance-free, alcohol-free, paraben-free — please state these at the outset so suitable raw materials can be selected.
Further reading
Related topics
Hesperidin methyl chalcone in cosmetics
Venous drug versus eye cream, limited evidence, safety and ASEAN regulation of HMC (in Vietnamese).
Dark circles and puffy eyes
Pigment, vascular and structural causes and what cosmetics can help with (in Vietnamese).
Caffeine in cosmetics
An active often combined with HMC in eye-area products (in Vietnamese).
Eye cream manufacturing
A different approach: eye creams that choose actives by cause and combine several groups.
Horse chestnut eye cream manufacturing
An eye cream named for a plant extract in the same signature ingredient line.
Contact dermatitis from cosmetics
Recognizing contact allergy and the role of patch testing (in Vietnamese).
How we work
From idea to finished batch
Eight steps and three milestones signed off by both sides: approved sample, notification number, finished batch. Step-by-step details (in Vietnamese) →
Get started
Tell us about the product you plan to launch
Send us your product direction and expected volume. Our team will get back to you during business hours (Vietnam time, GMT+7).
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