BUTTER-C
Signature ingredients
Zinc ricinoleate roll-on deodorant OEM/ODM manufacturing
Zinc Ricinoleate Roll-On Deodorant · Signature Ingredients · OEM/ODM
Zinc ricinoleate (INCI: Zinc Ricinoleate) is the zinc salt of ricinoleic acid — the main fatty acid of castor oil — and a familiar active in “aluminum-free” roll-ons and deodorant sprays. It is described as binding odor molecules, not reducing sweat; the sources we have read do not describe it as acting on bacteria. Human evidence is limited: the two underarm odor studies both have industry authors and do not report separate data for zinc ricinoleate. The US Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel concluded it is safe in the practices of use (2007) and when formulated to be non-irritating (2024), yet case reports of allergic contact dermatitis in the underarm exist. Commercial material is usually a premix containing triethanolamine, so the dossier has to reach every component. Butter-C’s zinc ricinoleate roll-on therefore promises body odor control and a pleasant scent, tested on the finished product itself — not sweat prevention or any effect on bacteria. Butter-C offers turnkey OEM/ODM manufacturing, from formula development and testing to labeled finished goods and the notification dossier.
Formula base
Zinc ricinoleate premix, supporting deodorant active and roll-on base
A zinc ricinoleate roll-on contains no aluminum salts; what is specific is choosing the right premix, getting the active into the roll-on base and declaring every accompanying component.
Zinc ricinoleate (Zinc Ricinoleate)
Not in Butter-C’s current ingredient list — sourced per order, certificate of analysis required. Per PubChem: C36H66O6Zn, 660.3 g/mol, CAS 13040-19-2; CIR 2007 describes a fine white powder melting at 92–95 °C. The 2016 industry survey cited by CIR 2024: 0.15–2.3%; underarm deodorants, non-spray 0.82–2% — reported levels, not recommendations. The level is stated as actual zinc ricinoleate, converted from its content in the premix.
Accompanying components in the premix
CIR 2007 describes one commercial material containing over 50% zinc ricinoleate, 10–25% triethanolamine, 1–5% dipropylene glycol and 1–5% lactic acid. Each supplier’s composition differs: obtain the full composition, declare every INCI on the label and check each substance against the ASEAN annexes (triethanolamine: Annex III Ref 62).
Supporting deodorant active (optional)
Triethyl Citrate: the review by Lukacs and Korting (1989) places it among substances meant to influence skin surface pH, separate from odor-binding substances such as zinc ricinoleate; its own human evidence is limited. CIR 2014 lists 2% as the highest reported level in deodorants.
Roll-on base, soothing and fragrance
A thin emulsion (Steareth-2, Steareth-21, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether) or a Hydroxyethylcellulose gel for the roll-on bottle; glycerin, allantoin and aloe for a gentle feel (formulation experience); light fragrance or fragrance-free.
Key technical points
Binds odor rather than blocking sweat, zinc calculation, triethanolamine read correctly
These four points are where a zinc ricinoleate roll-on differs from a standard roll-on; each is settled by a certificate of analysis, the formula sheet or a test on the sample.
Binds odor molecules, does not block sweat
Baxter and Reed (1983) called zinc ricinoleate an odour absorber used on existing malodor; a molecular simulation (Kuhn 2000, three of four authors from a chemical company) showed water weakening the shielding around the zinc ion. It is not an aluminum salt and does not plug sweat ducts — sweat output is unchanged. There are no data measuring its binding of each class of underarm odor compound on human skin. For sweat reduction, see the aluminum-salt line on the general roll-on page.
Getting the active into the roll-on base
CIR 2007 and 2024 give no water solubility data for zinc ricinoleate (CIR 2024 lists only an estimated log P of 11.34). How to add it to a water base — a ready premix or the oil phase — follows the supplier’s TDS; stick bases must allow for the 92–95 °C melting point. Every sample is stability tested to catch precipitation, haze and separation.
Zinc calculation and Annex III Ref 24
Zinc makes up about 9.9% of zinc ricinoleate by weight (65.38/660.3); CIR 2024 uses the same ratio (1.1% in a lipstick equals 0.11% zinc) — so 2% zinc ricinoleate ≈ 0.2% zinc. Ref 24: “Water-soluble zinc salts with the exception of zinc 4-hydroxy benzene sulphonate (entry 25) and zinc pyrithione (entry 101 and Annex VI, entry 8)”, “1% calculated as zinc”. The text does not define “water-soluble”; Butter-C currently places zinc ricinoleate outside Ref 24 pending regulatory confirmation from the supplier’s solubility data. The formula sheet still records the zinc equivalent, adds every other zinc source (e.g. zinc PCA) and compares the total with 1% as a cautious benchmark. Not to be confused with Ref 25 (zinc phenolsulfonate, a separate entry for deodorants and antiperspirants, maximum 6%).
Triethanolamine in the premix
Annex III Ref 62 (“Trialkylamines, trialkanolamines and their salts”): leave-on products maximum 2.5%; “Do not use with nitrosating systems”, “Minimum purity: 99%”, “Maximum secondary amine content: 0.5% (applies to raw materials)”, nitrosamine maximum 50 μg/kg in the raw material (footnote 21), “Keep in nitrite-free containers”. Illustrative example: 2% of a premix containing 25% triethanolamine contributes 0.5% — added to any triethanolamine used for neutralizing elsewhere in the formula. CIR 2013: not to be used in products in which N-nitroso compounds can be formed.
Three formulation directions
Three zinc ricinoleate roll-on lines
White emulsion roll-on, light scent
Steareth-2/Steareth-21 with PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, zinc ricinoleate premix, glycerin, allantoin; quick-dry feel and marks on clothing assessed on the sample.
Fragrance-free gel roll-on
Hydroxyethylcellulose gel, zinc ricinoleate, propanediol; for people avoiding fragrance. Fragrance-free does not rule out allergy to zinc ricinoleate itself — the label keeps its warning. Clarity depends on the premix and is settled by testing.
Zinc ricinoleate – triethyl citrate roll-on
Combines the two groups of actives that the Lukacs 1989 review separates: odor binding and skin surface pH. The effect of the whole formula is stated only with odor assessment on the finished product.
Packaging must be designed with the formula
Plastic or glass roll-on bottles; base viscosity must suit the ball size, the cap must seal to stop evaporation, and the ball must not stick if the active precipitates.
Parameters we monitor
What our R&D team measures on every sample
Below is the set of parameters Butter-C monitors during formula development and scale-up. Specific limits are agreed with you on the approved sample and then written into the product’s in-house specification.
- Incoming premix dossier
- Full composition by INCI, zinc ricinoleate and zinc content, water solubility data, heavy metals (CIR 2024 stresses controlling heavy metal impurities in zinc salts); if triethanolamine is present: purity, secondary amines and nitrosamines per Ref 62.
- Formula sheet
- Records actual % zinc ricinoleate, zinc equivalent (≈ 9.9%), total zinc from all sources and total triethanolamine (including salts) to compare with the 2.5% leave-on limit.
- pH and viscosity
- Measured at 25 °C; viscosity determines how smoothly the ball rolls.
- Stability
- Freeze–thaw cycling and storage at 40 °C; watch for precipitation, separation, color and odor change (the ricinoleate chain has one double bond — monitoring odor and color is a practical suggestion, not measured data).
- Microbiology and preservative efficacy
- Tested at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory; preservative efficacy (challenge) test per ISO 11930 for water-containing bases.
- Skin tolerance
- CIR 2024 concluded safety “when formulated to be non-irritating” — irritation testing on the finished product before sign-off.
- Deodorant efficacy (if hours are claimed)
- Underarm odor assessed by a trained judge panel (for example per ASTM E 1207, as in Dumas 2009) on the finished product itself, at an independent testing facility.
- Clothing marks and packaging compatibility
- Tested on white and black fabric; watch for ball sticking, cap leakage and evaporation through the neck.
Claims
Claims for an aluminum-free roll-on
Annex 03-MP of Vietnam’s Circular 06/2011/TT-BYT lists “completely prevents sweating” as an unacceptable claim for deodorants. For a roll-on whose only active is zinc ricinoleate, sweat claims have even less basis, since it does not reduce sweating. Butter-C reviews the wording on labels and marketing materials when preparing the notification dossier.
Controls body odor, helps reduce underarm odor (to be tested on the finished product)
Instead of: claims to act on odor-causing bacteria, “inhibits bacteria”.
Aluminum-free (state the actual composition)
Instead of: stops sweating, dry all day, drug-like claims about heavy sweating.
Contains zinc ricinoleate — a deodorant active (ingredient description)
Instead of: “natural, so it won’t cause allergies”, “safe for all skin”, “safe in pregnancy”.
Odor control for the number of hours assessed
Only when the finished product itself has odor assessment results as support; do not borrow hours from other studies.
Study data: read in context
Baxter and Reed (1983): zinc ricinoleate used on existing malodor reduced its perception for up to 24 hours; the abstract gives no sample size, concentration or design for this part; the authors were from a company. Dumas et al. (2009): a stick containing hops extract and zinc ricinoleate, trained judges per ASTM E 1207-87, mean malodor score from 6.28 to 1.80 after 8 hours, 1.82 after 12 hours, 2.24 after 24 hours; the authors attribute the effect to the base and the actives, and were from a company. Neither is evidence for zinc ricinoleate alone.
Label warnings
Do not apply to broken or freshly shaved, irritated skin (practical knowledge); stop use if redness or itching occurs. Case reports of allergic contact dermatitis to zinc ricinoleate in deodorants exist (1987, 2001, 2024, 2026); anyone who has reacted to a deodorant should see a dermatologist for patch testing. Pregnancy and breastfeeding: not enough data, so ask a doctor.
Manufacturing specifications
Current capabilities
- Textures
- Thin emulsion, gel; light scent or fragrance-free.
- Zinc ricinoleate material
- Not in Butter-C’s current ingredient list; imported per order, each lot with a certificate of analysis and the full premix composition.
- Pack formats
- Plastic or glass roll-on bottles. Volume agreed when selecting packaging.
- Minimum order quantity
- Agreed per order and per scent.
- Testing
- Tested at a GLP / ISO 17025-accredited laboratory, with a certificate of analysis delivered with every batch.
- Documentation
- Product Information File (PIF) and cosmetic product notification dossier prepared by Butter-C, with the zinc and triethanolamine calculation sheet.
- Packaging
- Label design, printing and packing run in parallel with formulation.
Suggested product concept
Aluminum-free zinc ricinoleate roll-on, soft powdery scent
One product concept to help you picture the possibilities — not a ready-made product for sale. The actual formula is developed around your brand’s positioning and price range.
Zinc ricinoleate as the named active
Premix with a certificate; zinc ricinoleate level within the CIR survey range for underarm deodorants, settled by efficacy testing; zinc equivalent and triethanolamine recorded on the formula sheet.
Triethyl citrate support
Combined with zinc ricinoleate; the claim belongs to the whole formula and rests on odor assessment of the finished product.
Light emulsion base
Steareth-2/Steareth-21, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, glycerin, allantoin; quick-dry feel and marks on clothing assessed on the sample.
50 ml roll-on bottle
Soft powdery scent and a fragrance-free version; the label says not to use on broken skin and to stop if irritation occurs.
Customization options
What you can specify
The same product type can serve very different customers. Tell us your requirements in the areas below and our pharmacists will develop a matching formula.
Odor control only or sweat reduction too
Zinc ricinoleate only controls odor; adding aluminum salts turns the product into an antiperspirant line with its own limits and warnings (general roll-on page).
Product format
Emulsion roll-on, gel roll-on; sticks and pump sprays per the corresponding pages.
Scent
Powdery, floral, citrus, woody, or fragrance-free — fragrance adds its allergens to the calculation sheet.
Target users
Women, men, active people; positioning for children needs a separate assessment.
Product line coordination
Same scent as your body wash and deodorant spray; CIR 2024 considered zinc ricinoleate in deodorant sprays up to 2.3% and judged incidental inhalation not a significant route of exposure.
Ingredient direction
Alcohol-free, fragrance-free, vegan (only when the supplier confirms it for the entire premix) — please state this from the start.
Further reading
Related knowledge
Zinc ricinoleate in deodorants
Odor-binding mechanism, evidence, allergy and how to read ASEAN Ref 24 (in Vietnamese).
Roll-on deodorant manufacturing
General page on deodorant and antiperspirant roll-ons; this page focuses on zinc ricinoleate.
Men's deodorant manufacturing
Men’s line, quick-dry sticks, with or without aluminum salts.
Deodorant spray manufacturing
Pump spray format, also using zinc ricinoleate.
Sweat and body odor
The difference between deodorants and antiperspirants (in Vietnamese).
Triethanolamine (TEA) in cosmetics
Annex III Ref 62 and nitrosamines — a common component of zinc ricinoleate premixes (in Vietnamese).
Triethyl citrate in cosmetics
A supporting deodorant active often paired with zinc ricinoleate: what has data and what is still hypothesis (in Vietnamese).
How we work
From idea to finished batch
Eight steps and three milestones signed off by both sides: approved sample, notification number, finished batch. Step-by-step details (in Vietnamese) →
Get started
Tell us about the product you plan to launch
Send us your product direction and expected volume. Our team will get back to you during business hours (Vietnam time, GMT+7).
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